Propshaft removal

PostPost by: Keith Scarfe » Thu Apr 19, 2007 1:49 pm

I have just read this thread:
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtop ... highlight=

realising it is written for a +2. Does onyone know if the same procedure is possible on a baby elan. Can the prop be removed with the engine, box and diff in situe?
Thanks for any advice.
Keith.
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PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Thu Apr 19, 2007 6:38 pm

Yes it can be. The trickiest part is sliding the front end back into the splines on the tailshaft. The access hole in the fiberglass on the side of the shaft tunnel should have a removable rubber boot under the carpet, so you can stick your hand in and guide the propshaft into place.
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PostPost by: reb53 » Fri Apr 20, 2007 6:10 am

Yes it can.
As I mentioned in that thread I'd done it on my Sprint but not on a Plus 2.

Ralph.
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PostPost by: Keith Scarfe » Fri Apr 20, 2007 7:16 am

Ok thanks for the hints. I will hopefully have a go this weekend (assuming I dont get dragged off shopping). I like your hint of removing the torque rods Ralph. Thanks. I am still not sure what my problem is. But it must be either the prop or the gearbox or diff internals. Front UJ on the prop I recon. So I am going to start with this. Got to do something about it now as I drove it again yesterday after a while laid up and it nearly vibrated itself to bits. Here is the original post:
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?t=13118
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PostPost by: ppnelan » Fri Apr 20, 2007 1:44 pm

Keith,

Do you have the correct spacers in place under the gearbox mounting ?
If not, the 2 ends of the propshaft may not be parallel (gearbox end pointing down slightly). This can make a BIG difference...

:arrow: Matthew
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PostPost by: Keith Scarfe » Mon Apr 23, 2007 7:33 am

Spent a little time on it, not enough though due to the predicted shopping expedition. :? Anyway, Got the car in the air and stripped out the interior so I could get to the front UJ via the hole /rubber bung in the side of the trans tunnel. The prop uj's are absolutely fine, no play in them at all. No rust leakage. Gearbox mount fine and yes the spacers are there. Roto flex's fine, diff mounts and bearings all fine (levered to check for play).
I made it safe up in the air and run it in 3rd gear. The vibration is still there (at about 40-60mph) but not as pronounced, pressing the brake brings it on so it is defo an 'under load thing' I just cannot see anything wrong at all.
Dont know what to do now. I guess I will just have to take something out and strip it and rebuild it - even though everything looks ok. I might as well start by taking the prop off and checking its balance. I remember something about marking the diff flange so you replace it in the correct position. I thought the bolt holes meant it was only possible to get one position. Could I have bolted it up wrong?
Thanks for the help so far. Any more ideas?
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PostPost by: wojeepster » Tue Apr 24, 2007 12:11 am

When you have the prop shaft out articulate the joints and look at the ujoints closely. The only other cause I have found for a badly vibrating car was when the exhaust was rubbing on the rear tire (not an elan)
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PostPost by: Keith Scarfe » Sat Apr 28, 2007 10:05 pm

Woo Hoo... Sussed it. :D Got the prop off today and yes one of the UJ's is knackered. Am sure this is the problem. Once I have changed the UJ's I could do with getting the shaft balanced. Does anyone on this forum know of anywhere in the North West of UK preferably the Preston area who would do this.
Cheers.
Keith.

p.s. getting the prop out was quite easy. I followed as described in link above. Removed g/b mount lifted up g/b bit and out she came. Even left the exhaust on.
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PostPost by: Tonyw » Sun Apr 29, 2007 2:37 am

Keith,

Generally a prop shaft faulty UJ will vibrate the car at a given speed, it will start, get worse and then overcome the vibrations, from memory usually at around 30 to 40 MPH, the UJ really puts the prop shaft out of balence, not a bad idea to replace both joints and have the shaft re-balenced at the same time, as for putting it back at the same spot, not really required.

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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:20 am

Keith

If you mark the joint before splitting it and replace in the same configuration it shouldn't need re-balancing....

John :wink:
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PostPost by: reb53 » Sun Apr 29, 2007 6:38 am

Theoretically correct but I found out the hard way not always true.
Which is why I ended up doing it twice.

Ralph.
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