Lotus Elan

Rotoflex frustraton

PostPost by: Gasman » Tue Aug 23, 2005 5:18 pm

Dear all,
Has anyone suggestions as to how to make changing the rotoflex couplngs easier. I have put bags of sand in the boot to compress suspension but am still having real problems lining up bolts to holes. I can see myself ruining the threads at this point and would be grateful for any tips. Is there a 'best order' to assemble or just work outwards?

Thanks for any help
Gasman
First Gear
First Gear
 
Posts: 33
Joined: 29 Apr 2005

PostPost by: types26/36 » Tue Aug 23, 2005 5:41 pm

Gasman wrote:Has anyone suggestions as to how to make changing the rotoflex couplngs easier.


If you are fitting new coulplings do not take off the steel band untill after they are fitted.
If you are using used couplings put a large jublee clamp around the coupling to compress before fitting them.
Brian
Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
User avatar
types26/36
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 3628
Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Location: U.K.

PostPost by: chrishewett » Tue Aug 23, 2005 5:49 pm

Hi,
It just is a lousy job. I have found by turning the shaft so that the bolt I am fitting is at the bottom and using an extra jack placed under the rotoflex to gently push it up as I fit the bolt will flex it enough to get the bolt in more easily. Try it it might help.
Chris
chrishewett
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 472
Joined: 06 Oct 2003
Location: Lincolnshire

PostPost by: types26/36 » Tue Aug 23, 2005 6:02 pm

Brian
64 S2 Roadster
72 Sprint FHC
User avatar
types26/36
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 3628
Joined: 11 Sep 2003
Location: U.K.

PostPost by: brassrngfm » Tue Aug 23, 2005 7:07 pm

I put two stainless worm-style hose clamps together around the Rotoflex. Then I could compress or relax the compression just enough to allow the bolts to install easily. I've done it a few times, like everyone else and have found that they go in best at the 7:00-8:00 position (toward the rear). Compression definitely necesary at first - but as a few got installed I remember having to loosen the band a bit. Whatever you do, don't get mad and start hitting things with a drift or hammer. Just makes things worse. The additional jack, as recommended earlier helped me a lot also.
Good luck
Paul Zimmerman
65 S2
brassrngfm
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 104
Joined: 08 Jan 2004
Location: Geneva, Switzerland

PostPost by: berni29 » Wed Aug 24, 2005 3:08 am

Hi There

I have done this a few times and find that once you have the rotoflex levered into nearly the right spot pushing a screwdriver through the holes will allow you do some fine adjustment, and if you are lucky then friction will hold it there. Also if you whack the bolt a bit they will go in if you are not tooooo far off. Last resort that.

I have never had much luck with the jubilee clip method when it comes to putting on rotos that have been taken off without them, but putting them on before removal works a treat. At the bottom of the page link below there is a picture of one with the clips on.

http://www.searchsmart.co.uk/lotus/2005_jul_aug.htm

Good luck with them. I am looking forwards to getting some solid driveshafts!
Racing green +2s with green tints. See it at:

www.searchsmart.co.uk/lotus
User avatar
berni29
Third Gear
Third Gear
 
Posts: 387
Joined: 10 Mar 2004
Location: Beckenham Kent

PostPost by: Frank Howard » Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:18 pm

One of the advantages of a DHC is that rather than load the boot with weight, one can place a post between the top of the shock tower and the ceiling. Then jack against this to compress the rear suspension. I did this while changing my rotoflexes.

Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
Frank Howard
Fourth Gear
Fourth Gear
 
Posts: 994
Joined: 30 Mar 2004

PostPost by: freddy22112211 » Wed Aug 24, 2005 6:38 pm

Here's a link that won't help.
http://www.lotuselan.de/a/donuts.txt
Gordon
User avatar
freddy22112211
Second Gear
Second Gear
 
Posts: 190
Joined: 21 Sep 2003
Location: Ulm, Germany

PostPost by: Mohe » Thu Aug 25, 2005 7:47 pm

I found a neat trick. I took an old rotoflex bolt and ground the end to a rough point, a bit like a not very sharp pencil. This is easy to tap into the holes to line the holes up. You do this from the 'wrong' side of the doughnut. Then you gently tap a proper bolt in from the 'right' side. This drives the pointed bolt out as it gets replaced it with the new one. The pointed bolt drops on your head and is ready for the next hole.

I hope that helps


Geoff
Mohe
First Gear
First Gear
 
Posts: 33
Joined: 14 Sep 2003

PostPost by: 1964 S1 » Wed Aug 31, 2005 1:28 am

I've clamped vise grips on the bolt, just below the head and parallel to the bolt and "steered" it into the hole. I've never really understood all the carping I read when it comes to this job, it's not that tough.... I LOVE Geoff's method with the pointed bolt and will definetly try it next time I get the opportunity.
1964 S1
Coveted Fifth Gear
Coveted Fifth Gear
 
Posts: 1496
Joined: 15 Sep 2003
Location: Hamilton County, Ohio

PostPost by: Gasman » Wed Aug 31, 2005 8:17 pm

I finished this job 'fairly easily' thanks to the tips.

Understanding compressing the couplings was a big leap in the right direction, and doing the outboard coupling last made the job substantially easier.

Of interest the manual says all bolt heads towards the wheels but he picture in the rear suspension section shows the bolts to the differential to be the otherway round.

I'm now preparing for my next challenge
Gasman
First Gear
First Gear
 
Posts: 33
Joined: 29 Apr 2005

Total Online:

Users browsing this forum: alan.barker, MarkDa and 1 guest