Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

S4 Elan Coupe
Gearbox rebuilt & new clutch 15000km ago
When engine hot unable to select reverse without crunch.OK when cold and other gears fine.Pedal seems same & no slippage felt
Hydraulic fluid unchanged level & gearbox oil checked
Suggestions please;hoping to avoid removing engine

Clutch is not fully disengaging by the sound of it.

Try adjusting the free play in the slave cylinder push rod to reduce the free play.
Also try bleeding the clutch.
If you have the original red plastic tube, the tube can swell under pressure and the clutch not disengage fully when hot so try replacing that
Check the wear and free play in the pedal master cylinder push rod linkage.



cheers
Rohan

Thanks Rohan,
Will let you know how it goes
G

I also had this problem and actually bought a second gearbox before realising it was a clutch adjustment issue.

The things I did that fixed it were, 1st replaced the slave push rod with an adjustable one, replaced the clevis pin, then finally put a shim behind the slave cylinder to stop it pushing backwards.

I still have a newly conditioned gearbox which I guess I will sell as not now needed

Steve

Just a thought..
With the engine hot what have you got the idle tickover rpm at?
If the tickover is too fast reverse will definitely crunch when engaged. I would want 1000 rpm maximum and ideally 850 rpm if achievable without it getting too lumpy.

Morning,

I had this problem on my +2 after gearbox work, and discovered a stop on the clutch peddle, which is not documented. However, it appeared a number of owners have it.

Adjusted it and all is well.............

davidj wrote:Morning,

I had this problem on my +2 after gearbox work, and discovered a stop on the clutch peddle, which is not documented. However, it appeared a number of owners have it.

Adjusted it and all is well.............

No adjustable clutch pedal stop on the S4 Elan ( at least on mine) so the pedal should go all the way to the floor, you need to make sure no excess carpet or underlay under the peal restricting its movement. t I did have this problem on my Plus 2 early on until discovered the adjustable bolt stop behind the pedal

cheers
Rohan

If the pushrod adjustment seems OK and there's no air in the lines slide back the clutch fork rubber gaiter and peer inside the bell housing with a torch or inspection camera. It's not unknown for the fork to bend or crack due to fatigue. It's the same fork as that used on bog standard Mk1 Cortina. It was never designed for the heavier duty Twin Cam clutch. That's why Burton offer a heavier duty version that's reinforced around the pivot location. It's always worthwhile changing it as a matter of course when the engine and gearbox are separated as the cost of it is small compared to the labour of replacement.