Lotus Elan

Plus 2 Clutch replacement process clarification

PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Tue Jul 02, 2019 1:08 am

I am in the process of replacing the clutch on a 70 Plus 2 with the original chassis.

We are planning on removing the gearbox and engine in one piece.
From the instructions it would appear (as I can't see it in the car) that the engine and gearbox should separate from the propshaft without the removal of any bolts at end of the gearbox?

For replacement, one would guide the gearbox back into the propshaft by utilizing one of the access holes in the body transmission tunnel.

Am i reading the posts correctly?

Thanks for the help and guidance

Nick
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PostPost by: prezoom » Tue Jul 02, 2019 1:41 am

Don't forget to drain the gearbox, otherwise you will have a mess. Coming out is easier than going back in because of the "bell housing lock" getting past the motor mounts chassis brackets. Easiest to rotate the engine and gearbox to slip past. When going back in, finding the right point of slipping the drive shaft yoke back into the gearbox takes some previous practice. It is easier to disconnect the drive shaft from the differential so it can slide forward into the tail housing. Then reconnect the drive shaft back to the differential flange. One way you can make it easier to disconnect and reconnect the drive shaft to the differential flange is to purchase some 12 point AN bolts, their associate washers, and jet nuts. Wrenches fit much easier and the precision bolts are a better fit through the holes. These bolts, washers and nuts can be purchased from Coast Fabrication. They are sized in length of the non-threaded portion, which means you do not have to have the threaded portion in shear.
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PostPost by: SENC » Tue Jul 02, 2019 2:30 am

As prezoom already confirmed, yes. Be sure to remove the reverse light switch from the top of the gearbox so there is one less thing to jam on exit. The bellhouse jam he references can happen on the way out, too, I spent a good 30 minutes jostling, raising, lowering, and jostling some more to get it out. Easy once done, but frustrating while stuck. Patience is your friend. Also agree on the AN bolts, and this is a good opportunity to remove the propshaft to inspect and address ujoints and yoke.
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PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Tue Jul 02, 2019 2:41 pm

Thanks very much for the advice and counsel.
Much appreciated, we will see how the project goes on Friday (:
Nick
Nick Baxter
1970 Plus 2S (Federal)
1969 Plus 2 (UK) - sold
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Jul 02, 2019 4:28 pm

It's easier just to remove the Engine and leave Gearbox in place.
When you remove Clutch for Engine remember to renew the Spigot needle Bearing in the end of the Crankshaft.
Also examine the Flywheel surface it might need resurfacing if the Clutch juddered before.
Alan
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PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Tue Jul 02, 2019 4:47 pm

thanks much,
It might be the easy way to start,
N
Nick Baxter
1970 Plus 2S (Federal)
1969 Plus 2 (UK) - sold
nwbaxter66
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