Electrical - Headlamps

PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Sat Sep 05, 2009 9:07 pm

My headlamps aren't working. The pods go up ok and I think the lamps are clicking/flashing but when I switch them on - nothing. Can anyone tell me where the relays are located as I want to trace the circuit to see where the fault is? Thanks.
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PostPost by: alexblack13 » Mon Sep 07, 2009 10:30 pm

Hi Bud,

They should be located on the nearside just under the support for the bonnet. Probably a bad earth somewhere usually is.

Get the multi meter out and (if you have one) the diagram. The switch on the drivers side headlamp pod is the one which earths out the headlamp relays & switches on the lamps. If this earth is not present..No relay switched = no headlamps. The switch on the other pod (passengers side) switches the headlamp flasher relay on. Most flasher systems don't work well though without mods. Is the fault nil lamps of does dip or main work? nothing working points to bad earth via the sw to the relay. Earths ok? Check power to the relays Power there?
Its the relay or cons there to...
You will find it. Norm' bad earth somewhere... :? All good lotus fun!

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PostPost by: richardcox_lotus » Tue Sep 08, 2009 9:42 am

I've had this in the past. The microswitch on the driver's side headlamp gets stuck & doesn't make a contact when the headlamp rises. Probably needs a clean

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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Tue Sep 08, 2009 10:08 am

What's the point of those switches that are operated by the headlamp pods?
My tame Sparks that re-wired my S4 asked me that question.
I said probably to protect the filament from the shock of the headlamp pod moving i.e. the filaments being cold rather than glowing white hot.
The German reply was the equivalent of
"bo11ocks!, if they can withstand the shocks of driving they'll withstand that".
Having great respect for the guy, they were ripped out & put into "the original parts" box.
In retrospect Lotus didn't put anything into the car that they considered superfluous; weight & more importantly MONEY!
It's not that I'd really consider re-fitting those switches (less switches/connections = less trouble) but can anyone point out the error of my (his/our) ways?

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PostPost by: richardcox_lotus » Tue Sep 08, 2009 11:47 am

My only thought was to prevent the lights remaining on when the pods are retracted- it can get quite hot in there.

Assuming of course, you're dumb enough to leave the lights on.....what do you mean there's no warning lamp / beeper ????
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PostPost by: GrUmPyBoDgEr » Tue Sep 08, 2009 1:18 pm

richardcox_lotus wrote:My only thought was to prevent the lights remaining on when the pods are retracted- it can get quite hot in there.

Assuming of course, you're dumb enough to leave the lights on.....what do you mean there's no warning lamp / beeper ????


Ah of course the lights have a switch & the pods a valve.
I put a solenoid valve into the pod vacuum system so the lighting switch powers up both the pods & the lights.
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PostPost by: Galwaylotus » Tue Sep 08, 2009 6:10 pm

Thanks, folks. Indeed I have both the shop manual wiring diagram and a multimeter and was planning to trace the fault but couldn't readily see the physical location of the relays. I'll check it out in the next few days - weather permitting! :)
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