head and dip beam relays

[denis peirce]

hi has anybody out there got durite relays fitted to there car,i got them from sue miller and the numbers and letters dont correspond with the old units any help would be appreciated thanks Denis.

[oldelanman]

Hi Denis,
I don't have them but there is a diagram on the Durite website which shows the connections.......http://www.durite.co.uk/pdf/2011/6/06.1_Relays_and_Flashers-Make_and_break_relays.pdf

If you are replacing an old Lucas relay with letter markings:-
Windings connections
W1 = 85
W2 = 86
Contacts connections
C1 = 30
C2 = 87

Regards,

[stugilmour]

Here is a link to where I bought mine. They have pictures of the relay internals with the pin number functions for each type.

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... relays.php

The 'standard' or Lucas type use a different numbering system, where W1 and W2 stand for the 'winding' or trigger circuit terminals, and C1 and C2 stand for the 'contact' or load circuit. This link shows the various Lucas relays, and there are similar detailed wiring diagrams with pin layouts under each product.

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product_list/113

Generally the 87 (and 87b if present) would be connected to the headlamp wires and 30 to the main power source. These correspond to C1 and C2 respectively. These would generally be the larger gauge wires at the relay location.

The trigger circuit, the smaller gauge wire, comes from the column dip switch to terminal 86, and then to ground at terminal 85. The ground part of the circuit may go thru the headlight microswitch controlled by the light pod position. These appear to correspond to W2 and W1.

It doesn't appear at first glance to matter whether terminal 85 or 86 is used as the ground on the trigger circuit, which is true if the replacement Durite relay model does not have a diode in it. However, if the relay has the diode to protect against voltage spikes, the wiring direction matters because the diode will blow and the relay has to be junked if connected backward. The lighting circuit does not really require the diode model, so this may not be an issue for you. You can probably tell easily which Durite you have by carefully examining the wiring diagram on the unit (once you know what to look for). You probably don't have to ask how I discovered this! I see Roger's excellent Durite link clears up this little mystery with clear labeling of the +ve and -ve trigger terminals. Note everything on the trigger circuit would be reversed if you are positive ground.

The Durite relays described above and their terminal assignments are pretty standard across several brands, and are often referred to generically as Bosch type or block type relays. Note that the linked suppiers above have terminal blocks or sockets available for the standard relay termnials if you are interested, although standard spade connections work fine. The terminal blocks and mounting boxes can be particularly handy if you are using multiple relays for other circuits in your re-wire and/or your particular replacement relays don't have a screw mounting hole on the casing, or you want to add additional fuses to your car.

HTH I see I was beaten by Roger with an excellent reply above