Starting issue after upgrades

[JohnCh]

This is a long post, but I'm trying to track down an issue after completing a series of related upgrades and don't want to miss anything that could be relevant. Power doesn't appear to be reaching the coil while the engine is cranking, but as soon as I release the key and it moves from Start to Run, the engine catches and runs fine. Not sure if it helps, but power to the brake & interior lights, headlights, and tachometer is not interrupted while the switch is in the Start position.

The car is a '68 S4 which the previous owner converted to a Pertonix Ignitor and Flame Thrower coil about a year ago. Over the past few weeks I've done the following:

1) Switched the starter to a modern gear reduction unit from RD Enterprises, and opted to keep the factory solenoid in operation. I drove the car a few times and there were no issues.

2) Converted the tach from RVI to RVC using a Spiyda module. I drove the car a couple of times and had no starting problems.

3) Installed a 123 Ignition distributor, keeping the existing coil and installing new Magnecor cables and here I am with the problem described above.

My setup has two wires attached to the 12v+ terminal on the coil. One from the distributor, and one disappearing into the loom that I assume goes to the ignition switch. The coil 12v- has wires for the distributor and the Spidya module.

I can't figure out what I screwed up that would cause this behavior. Any ideas what could be happening or what to check? Also, how is the coil supposed to get power while the starter is engaged?

Thanks,
John

[el-saturn]

i'm by no means THE electrician; BUT having dealt with exactly this problem i can only add this: the coil gets + from the ignition (leads thru yr tacho for actuating the needle thereof) and another cable must lead from the - (minus) on the coil to your distributor ----- not to forget the thick cable which comes from the top off yr dizzy to the center of the coil! sandy

[alanr]

My suggestion would be that during your upgrade you now have the wires between the starter solenoid and the coil 12v+ incorrectly connected (wrong side of solenoid)and that is why you are obviously not getting 12volts from the solenoid to the coil after releasing the key.

[JohnCh]

alanr nailed it, but it wasn't the 12v+ connection, rather as with all things Elan, it was the ground The 123 Ignition requires a second ground connection (12v+ to coil, 12v- to coil and 12v- for the rest of the electronics). I had used the solenoid since it was the most convenient location, but that ground disconnects when the solenoid engages. Removing that ground wire from the solenoid and holding it to a good grounding point while turning the key resulted in the engine starting normally. Thanks for the help!

-John

[geni]

converti tachymetre RVI en RVC module spiyda ?
pourriez vous m'expliquer et d?tailler cela car par la traduction cela n'aide pas a comprendre !

[pharriso]

converti tachymetre RVI en RVC module spiyda ?
pourriez vous m'expliquer et d?tailler cela car par la traduction cela n'aide pas a comprendre !

See https://www.spiyda.com/tachometer-electronics.html I did the conversion about 4 years ago, works perfectly!

[JohnCh]

Regarding the Spiyda they have excellent video instructions that are somewhat hidden towards the bottom of this page under the erroneous heading "Videos of the Fuel Gauge Wizard on YouTube " It's worth a look to see what's involved. https://www.spiyda.com/tacho-calibration-information

-John