Lotus Elan

S4 Electric Fan Choices

PostPost by: pamitchell » Tue May 25, 2004 7:25 pm

Hi All;

Looking to replace the missing pusher fan on my S4. I'm in the US.
Any suggestions on Electric fan types and sources to fit my Stanpart 10X22 radiator? Summit Racing carries several lines of fans that may work.
Rgds,
Phil Mitchell
Cupertino CA.
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PostPost by: poiuyt » Tue May 25, 2004 9:30 pm

I just had the engine rebuilt in my 69 S4 and we used a fan from Dave Bean that connected to the front of the radiator with ty-wrap like straps. we connected it to the same power source as the ignition so it can only run when the engine is running and wired it through a cut-off switch - no thermostatic switch.

T I leave it on all the time when the engine is running. Cost was around $90.


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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Wed May 26, 2004 11:20 am

I"ve had good luck with a Hayden fan from Pep Boys. Its a 10" pusher and I also purchased a variable electronic temp setting on/off switch from same. The wiring diagram was easy to follow which allowed me to wire in a manual override switch. I biased the fan to the right hand side (looking from the front) of the radiator to help push air along the headers and dissipate air out the cooling holes on the inner fender well.

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PostPost by: pamitchell » Wed May 26, 2004 5:26 pm

Thanks for your suggestions! I have a 10 " Permacool fan and installation kit w/
adjustable temp module and temp probe coming from Summit Racing.
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PostPost by: Unibrain » Wed May 26, 2004 7:53 pm

I took the radiator down to a local shop and had them fit two 10" electric fans. Instead of using the tywrap things, I had them weld on a couple of brackets. I also had them weld in a bung for the thermostat probe on the control switch. I only have one of the fans wired in the second is "just in case" the first can't keep up in the summer

For installation pictures see <a href='http://www.unibrain.org/motorsports/elan/gallery/radiator' target='_blank'>http://www.unibrain.org/motorsports/elan/g...allery/radiator</a>
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu May 27, 2004 12:18 pm

Jim, I like the idea of welding in a bung for the thermostat probe. My probe (get your mind out of the gutter please) goes between the fins of the radiator and although its pretty reliably consistent when it kicks on and off, I think yours is cleaner. I like the mounting brackets, too.

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PostPost by: Unibrain » Thu May 27, 2004 2:27 pm

If you do have a bung welded in, don't put it in the middle of the lower tank. It gets in the way of the bonnet spring. Guess how I know this. I ended up making a bracket to move the spring forward.
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PostPost by: type26owner » Thu May 27, 2004 2:53 pm

Hey Jim,
Ahhh... isn't the positioning of the temperature sensing fan switch kind of critical for thermal control reasons? By putting the switch in the bottom tank you've thermally isolated it from the water directly exiting the engine. One would expect you'll get some airflow cooling when in motion and some convective cooling when stationary and cause a time delay and temperature spike in the engine when experiencing a heatload event via excessive use of the happy pedal. Isn't directly downstream a short distance from the thermostat a better place for it to be located? That's where mine is. :ph34r:
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PostPost by: Unibrain » Thu May 27, 2004 5:16 pm

You are correct, the better place would be nearest the upper radiator hose. If we wanted to be perfect engineers, a variable speed fan and a constant flow pump would be the way to go for optimal cooling. Practice suggests it doesn't matter much where the temp probe is since the fan only comes on when stationary or during slow city driving. While using the happy pedal the flow over the radiator is much greater than the fan generates so who cares if it turns on a little late. I've set the variable thermostat to come on just above the stable running temperature and am still tweaking on it.

Of course if I had a 170hp twink I'd be more concerned with optimal cooling.
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PostPost by: type26owner » Fri May 28, 2004 3:06 am

If we wanted to be perfect engineers, a variable speed fan and a constant flow pump would be the way to go for optimal cooling.

Nope, that's old, obsolete technology. :D I'd do it with a heat pipe which has no moving parts. :rolleyes: Happen to be considering at the moment incorporating a miniature one for cooling down a sample to 4 degrees Kelvin. Fun stuff!
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PostPost by: type36lotus » Sat May 29, 2004 1:56 am

Hmmm... -452.5 F (forgive me I am rounding a bit here) might be overcooling your Elan a bit I think!
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PostPost by: elj221c » Sat May 29, 2004 10:36 am

I fittied an Otter switch in the top tank of a Marston rad but made the mistake of putting it at the opposite end to the water inlet. I had to use an overide switch all the time when in traffic otherwis the engine would always run too hot. When it gets rebuilt I will have the position corrected. serk here I come!

Roy
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