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Another Rev Counter Question.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 9:25 pm
by pereirac
Well two questions actually :)

I know there were two types of electronic rev counters made by Smiths, a RVI (current driven) and RVC (voltage driven) unit. It appears that the current driven units don't like electronic ignition. The type is printed on the face of the rev counter.

1. Were the later +2 S130s fitted with RVC units?
2. Has anybody made an adapter to allow RVI units to be voltage driven (the electronics can't be that hard). I know you can get your units converted by changing the bits inside...

Thanks

Carl

Re: Another Rev Counter Question.

PostPosted: Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:29 pm
by sk178ta
I had my RVI converted to run perfectly with electronic ignition by Speedograph Richfield. Expensive though.
Jim

Re: Another Rev Counter Question.

PostPosted: Mon Aug 30, 2004 3:46 pm
by rickf
I just bought an aftermarket 7,000 rpm tach at an auto parts store and switch the insides. I used the original dial, case and pointer, so everything looks the same as original. Never had any problems with it.

Re: Another Rev Counter Question.

PostPosted: Sun Sep 05, 2004 8:57 am
by pereirac
What make did you buy. I bought a second hand Smiths unit from ebay but nothing lines up and all the mounting holes are in different places (especially the dial, so I don't really want to hack myold unit about...

Re: Another Rev Counter Question.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 3:38 pm
by rickf
I bought an off the shelf unit at a local Auto Zone store. I had to drill new holes in the dial for the two little mounting screws, as the spacing and angle from horizontal wasn't the same. Same thing in the back of the case, plus I used longer screws and spacers back there. It took a little bit of layout work with a compass and a rule and using a drillpress helped. I think about any brand would work, but I'd assume you'd have to at least drill a couple of holes.

Re: Another Rev Counter Question.

PostPosted: Tue Sep 07, 2004 3:42 pm
by rickf
I should mention that it takes a little fiddling to mount it so the pointer lines up with the zero mark. It was about 3-4 hours work. Once you've done one, it would be about half that.