Idling predicament

[Carlos A]

Quick question: My Elan +2 has non federal Zenith Strombergs rebuilt a year ago. The engine of my car is a Stage II built by Dave Bean. The Strombergs behave well and I am happy with them. But?lately, every time I stop at a light the idling goes down and sometimes the car stops and I have to restart it. It is annoying. I tried increasing the idling speed. It works for a while and then the problem starts again. Only thing that has changed around here is the whether. It is around 41 F / 5 C?Any ideas about this? Thanks, Carlos

[rgh0]

In cold and humid condtions build up of ice on the needle and piston in strombergs can be a problem with the symptoms you decribe being consistent with that.

Run it with warm air from the radiator being sucked in to airbox by putting a temporary piece of duct in to see if the problem goes away.


cheers
Rohan

[rocket]

My plus 2 is still ok running in these temperatures but my water temp guage is roughly 10 degrees lower at the moment,tis cold out though...i have been wondering if it may be a good idea to reduce the cold air flow to the radiator in winter time? I have done this in the past on a couple of motorbikes with good results.Any one ever done this on an elan?

Ian.

[john.p.clegg]

Ian

Give it a try and post the results.......I cannot get any heat out of the heater in these conditions........works great in Summer....but it's hovering around freezing at the moment....maybe a higher (winter) stat would help...

John

[miked]

I have a piece of sponge stuff that I close off about 75% of the air intake
mouth. This works well when temp's are low. I have two other bits. A 50% and 40% piece. Bit of a pain but it works. Keep an eye on the temp gauge. I have been up to Duns in April 3 times like this. Had ice just at Shap (high bit) on M6, before I did it. Miles Wilkins says less than 3 degrees C and damp. I am inclined to agree from my own experience. Above this temp I have never had problems. Also when it has been cold and dry no problem. Been out at 1 degree C.

When I have had ice, it did not alter my tickover (but perhaps could). Would not pull off after stopping. They tend to frost at speed and stick. Had them carry on after overtaking a truck (whizz 85mph). Stuck open. Most times they stick when you have slowed down and won't rev until the heat soaks through. 2 - 3 minute, keep bonnet down. The air slides stick.

Re your RPM. Does pressing your brake pedal alter the revs? ---------- Servo and air leak!

Mike

[Carlos A]

So this annoying thing is the famous icing? I thought that the icing?s symptoms were different.

[miked]

Carlos, Maybe not, what about a servo leak?.

If you have one, the RPM can drop when you apply the bakes as it closes. Then when the pedal is lifted the RPM rises.

I would not have thought you have ice at 5 degrees C. I have had it lots of times, but is has been colder and damp. Favourite symtom is stopping at lights or a round about after a brisk run and not being able to pull off again. When the pedal is pressed the air slides/valves (and needles) dont lift, although your butterfly's open. 3 minutes or so with bonnet down with the engine heat and the ice melts and you can rev' again and off you go.

Sticking can happen at speed at decent throttle opening, but does not seem to happen as much. Have, again found that when the throttle is backed off after a long run, it sticks at tickover and you cant power the car.

Mike

[Carlos A]

Solved. Thank you guys for your help. It was not icing: it was a combination of low idle speed (this engine should idle at 1200 RPM) and a vacuum leak! (Thanks Mike!)

Best,

Carlos