Does anyone have a reliable solution to leaking rope seals?

[FOX5D]

I have been going through the archives without finding a conclusive result. My 1966 S3 still leaks from the front rope seal after the best efforts of my Lotus specialists to sort the problem on two occasions. Has anyone solved this problem?

Jim

[rgh0]

The front crank seal is a rubber lip seal. Its just the rear crank seal that is a rope seal on the 4 bolt crank engines.

The most common leaking cause assuming the front seal is in good condtion and the crank pully surface it runs on is also in good condition is typically due to the front cover seal not being centred on the crank so there is not consistent sealing pressure around the sealing surface.

cheers
Rohan

[DJThom]

What about the rear rope seal, which is my problem. Based on the archives, leaving all ends of the rope 1/8" proud (versus 1/32" in the manual) seems to be the prevailing notion. Is this correct and still the preferred approach?

[FOX5D]

I must be getting my facts wrong (or not being informed correctly), so I am very grateful for the advice so far. My leak appears to be from the front of the engine so I need to ask some more questions. The rope seal still seems to be a problem for Elan owners!

Jim

[512BB]

If its leaking from the front crank pulley area, it is either that the front seal is knackered, or the crank pulley has a groove worn in it where the seal contacts it, or the cork gasket, sump to block, is leaking from behind the crank pulley.

Easiest to remove the rad and then the crank pulley for a looksee, before anything more drastic.

Leslie

[Dag-Henning]

- regarding the rear rope seal, I do believe if you fit them dry as they come, you will very likely burn them when starting up for the first time, leaving a hard surface that will for surely leak. Soaking them over night in warm oil before fitting will help prevent this. It is not a brilliant design ( ! !), but excessive leaks should not be nescessary .

[Lincoln62]

When I rebuilt my engine in 1995 I wasn't happy with the cork seals that came with the gasket kit. Cork is good for a few years till it hardens up and I wanted it to last the life of the engine which could be 30 years given the miles I do.

I bought some nitrile rubber (oil resistant rubber they use to make O rings) and remade the seals from this.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nitrile_rubber

Still working fine.

Pete
66S2

[SJ Lambert]

I selected thin sump pan seals and still have the lubricated rope seal grabbing a bit harder than prior to fitting the pan when it?s nipped up.

[el-saturn]

...someone has to add the most reliable way to fix the problem: a 6 bolt pan with the 6 bolt crank using black e-ring (red and white box) sandy

[StressCraxx]

The crank seal at the front is a lip seal. The most common cause of repeat leakage is a groove worn front in the pulley. The two options are replacing the pulley or installing a speedi-sleeve on the pulley. I vote for replacing the pulley, because the pulley belt surface is almost always worn out.

[Quart Meg Miles]

Last year I replaced the rope seals successfully, the main problem being that the new seals were clearly too big. I posted about it in about April and Miles Wilkins kindly found some NOS ones for me.

Yes, soak the seals in warm oil overnight. I devised this method of fitting them:

Bolt the block seal carrier onto the back of the engine without gasket and push the seal firmly into it (with a big-end shell, I think that's correct, one shell has an outside diameter virtually the same as the crank journal);

Fit the crank and bolt the front and rear bearings up firmly. Cut the seal with a thin knife blade almost flush with the block without quite cutting the journal then remove the seal carrier and complete the cut;

Fit the other seal into the sump in the same way, bolt up the sump with an old bit of gasket to space it off the rear of the block a bit and cut the seal as before almost flush with the sump;

Remove the sump and complete the cut, then remove the crank and refit the rear seal carrier to the block properly. I checked that there was no play in the fitting of the carrier, it is well aligned;

Now you can fit the crank without worrying how much the seal is going to move during assembly.

The back of the sump is now drier than it's ever been after about 3000 miles so I'm worried about the chassis rusting! Sorry I don't have any pictures.

[roebuck]

Hi All,
I have a 1967 S3 with a leaking rear crank rope seal.
The motor was rebuilt only 6 months ago but it leaks.
I am told there may be a solution but have not been able to get an answer.
Can anyone help.

[roebuck]

Sorry did not see Meg reply. will give it a go
Rob

[Quart Meg Miles]

Sorry did not see Meg reply. will give it a go
Rob

PM me if it's not clear. Now done 7000 miles and not aware it leaks but the front does so it might be disguised.