AKS water Pump Module Strip?

[billwill]

Yes I know that the bolt heads are sunk into the flange, same with the Burton module pump.

But you should be able to drill the heads off rather than cutting into the flange. When the module is then pulled, there will not be much bolt stem sticking out, maybe not enough for a mole wrench.

Note that one of the bolts is bigger diameter than the other two.

~~~~~

OK, since the head and sump are off that makes taking the front of the timing case off much easier.

[john.p.clegg]

Steve
Have you not got an impact driver with a hex head adaptor?

John

[billwill]

Steve
Have you not got an impact driver with a hex head adaptor?

John

I got the impression that the Hex holes had been rounded out.

Does anyone make tapered hex ends for an impact driver?

[AlfaLofa]

Ah ha Bill - I now see what you mean. Sorry about that

And John yes I've got a couple of impact drivers somewhere - although I must admit I've never had much success with them. I think I've always been a bit wary of how hard to hit.

I'll have a look to see what heads I've got.

Fortunately this engine isn't my main engine - that was rebuilt by the great Mick Miller. That engine is still in my car.

But water pump removal isn't the only problem I've now come across with this second engine.

The "abuse" extends to a sheared engine mount bolt and also a sheared dynamo bracket bolt. Both these bolts have sheared beneath the outer surface of the block and will have to be drilled out and then helicoiled

[billwill]

Hmmm... I sheared a brake bleed screw earlier this year and was unable to get it out myself with stud extractors, but Classicar did get it out without needing a helicoil.
The technigue was to mill it out to the diameter of the inner portion of the thread and then pick out the bit if thread with a fine pointed pick.

I don't know if that would be possible on sheared bolts in your block though, it did need a precision milling machine. It had to be milled because drills tend to wander.

But it is probably worth trying successively bigger drills until you reach the size of the inner diameter of the thread, then pick out the bits and see how far off centre you are, before you consider helicoils.

[AlfaLofa]

I've just had a quick look on flea bay re impact drivers.

Has anybody got experience of an electric impact driver?

I'll see if our local hire shop has any - but I won't hold my breath.

They don't stock engine hoists - but if I want a 50 ton excavator or a bulldozer I will be okay.

[AHM]

Steve,

First take a deep breath and see how it all fits together have to remove cover before the backplate - I can send pictures if you need a specific detail

Second don't cut anything yet. Do you have a Mig Welder, or know anyone that does - or even your hire shop.

The most successful technique I have for removing broken studs is
1. weld a blob on the end of the stud (if it is below the surface i.e. your engine mount be careful of the threads and do it in several short bursts)
2 make the blob big enough that it sticks out
3 weld a nut to it

This has the advantage that it heats the stud and eases the thread. Also you haven't made anything worse by cutting or drilling which are still options.

Socket headed screws/bolts are usually grade 12.9 and hard as... the black is usually a phosphate finish rather than Zinc and passivate ie they can be any colour so it doesn't indicate the grade.

[AlfaLofa]

Success

I have removed the front cover - after drilling the screws back to where the screw head met the screw shaft and then detaching the remains of the countersunk head from the screw.

Now to find some new screws!

[billwill]

They came out I take it with a bit of help from Mr Mole...

If you take the backplate off, be very cautious when putting the backplate back, only a small amount of silicone gasket goo and make sure it does not get anywhere near the tiny hole which squirts oil onto the timing chain. After the timing case backplate is off, you will see the groove in the front of the block that forms this oil channel.

If all else fails our Alex Black, here, can obtain Imperial thread bolts etc.

[AlfaLofa]

Hi Bill,

Yes the good old mole grips did the job

I'll now get hold of a replacement pump unit - assuming I know what I'm after.

The consensus seems to be a Sierra pump which I will need to open up to extract the desired parts.

It looks like the UNC fasteners are available - a quick search found these (albeit stainless and screws rather than bolts).

http://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/UNC.html

[billwill]

The AKS unit may have been designed to use the standard Ford/Lotus waterpump repair kit.

~~~

I don't think I knew the difference between bolts and screws, but I deduce from that website that bolts are not threaded all the way to the head, whereas screws are.

[MickG]

Hi Steve,
I have used http://www.namrick.co.uk/ for all the nuts, bolt, screws and washers that I ever needed. Very helpfull and quick delivery.
No affiliation etc etc
Regards Mick G

[john.p.clegg]

Phil

While you've got the module out (if you have the time/tools) tap three holes in the flange same size as fixing screws to use as an extractor next time...

John

P.S. Use stainless or brass screws

[AlfaLofa]

I ordered some stainless replacement screws yesterday - I couldn't find bolts of the correct size, but I expect they are out there.

Mick, I tried Namrick - but without success.

John, I haven't yet attempted to remove the module from the front cover.

I might give it a go today - but the ability to get an "extractor" on it sounds a good idea.

I can get the holes drilled/tapped by a guy in the village.

What method is it you are proposing?

[john.p.clegg]

Phil
Method...just take the fixing screws out and screw then into the new tapped holes gently and together...they'll pull the flange away from the timing cover...

John