Removing Exhaust Headers Plus 2

PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:27 am

Apologies for dumb new owner question, but search was not my friend in this case.
Working on a Plus 2 with after market headers 4-2-1 (so they break down into two separate pieces when removed from the heads).
How do I get the darned headers out of the car?
The only way that I can currently see is by removing the header side engine mount and before I do that, I wanted to see if I am missing an obvious alternate route.
Is there a simple solution here that I am missing?
Thanks very much.
Nick
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PostPost by: prezoom » Wed Apr 11, 2018 2:16 am

Place a jack under the oil pan with a board between the jack and the pan to spread the load. Then, as you have guessed, remove the motor mount. I will hazard a guess that you have removed the Y piece between the header pipes and the exhaust pipe. Wiggle a bit, and things will come apart.
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PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 2:22 am

Thank you very much... I am now looking forward to Wednesday night (:
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Apr 11, 2018 5:36 am

Nick
Make a mental note how they are removed , it will help with re-assembly...that's just as tricky....

John :wink:
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Wed Apr 11, 2018 7:38 am

And even more frustrating as you start to believe that they'll never go back In!
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PostPost by: lotusfan » Wed Apr 11, 2018 10:44 am

Some people, me included, recommend removing the studs and using cap head screws instead. Even then, it's still a bu%%er of a job.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:15 am

Imho keep the studs but while you're there fit new studs assembled with copperslip.
+ new brass nuts and lockwashers.
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PostPost by: john.p.clegg » Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:22 am

some of us use cap heads ( much easier with a ball headed allen key than a spanner/socket ) and if you want to do the job 100% , helicoil while you're in there..

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PostPost by: mbell » Wed Apr 11, 2018 11:58 am

If you need extra wiggle room you could try removing one bolt from the engine mount under the carbs. This should allow easier/more movement of the engine as it can rotate on the other mount.

Just remember it is possible you just have to find the magic sequence that gets them out...
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PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Wed Apr 11, 2018 12:49 pm

(: ... and patience
I think that the engine mount trick should give me the space I need.
N
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PostPost by: pauljones » Wed Apr 11, 2018 1:26 pm

And if all else fails,
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Kick the tyres and light them fires...!!!!!!!
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PostPost by: nwbaxter66 » Thu Apr 12, 2018 12:51 pm

Thanks to all the advice, the angle grinder was warmed up, new disc, but was not needed.

Removed Clutch Slave Cylinder and Engine Mount, with oil pan supported as described, removed alternator and top radiator hose and both header pieces came out from below with minimal cursing and verbal persuasion.

Thanks for the assistance, not sure that I needed to take off the alternator and I could have created more room by removing the sway bar and chassis brace but that was unnecessary.

I am sure that the reverse will not be as easy (: But at least everything will be nicely clean while doing that job.

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PostPost by: MarkDa » Thu Apr 12, 2018 1:08 pm

That's good to hear - planning pays off again.
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PostPost by: AussieJohn » Thu Apr 12, 2018 6:06 pm

Blimey, I've never taken them out from underneath, food for thought though.
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PostPost by: Quart Meg Miles » Thu Apr 12, 2018 7:15 pm

AussieJohn wrote:Blimey, I've never taken them out from underneath, food for thought though.

You should be all right in Oz, your cars are already upside down.
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