Re-commissioning and fuel

[Baggy2]

Hello all,
I went to bed at 3:30 am this morning a happy man - my newly re-built engine was back in my +2. My aim is to have it running by the end of the weekend. I would be interested in your comments on the following.
The engine has not run for about 8 years. When I cleaned the carbs they were gummed up with a brown goo a bit like toffee - Am I to assume there is similar goo in the fuel tank and what should I do about it?
Because anything to do with the distributor is such a pain when the engine is in the car I have pre-set the timing to what I hope will be right - It should certainly run. The general advice is to retard the ignition slightly when running on unleaded - this I've done but I'm wondering if the new fuel also means new jets in the carbs?
I'm really excited at the prospect of it running again - must get home .........
Baggy

[summerinmaine]

Hello all,
I went to bed at 3:30 am this morning a happy man - my newly re-built engine was back in my +2. My aim is to have it running by the end of the weekend. I would be interested in your comments on the following.
The engine has not run for about 8 years. When I cleaned the carbs they were gummed up with a brown goo a bit like toffee - Am I to assume there is similar goo in the fuel tank and what should I do about it?
Because anything to do with the distributor is such a pain when the engine is in the car I have pre-set the timing to what I hope will be right - It should certainly run. The general advice is to retard the ignition slightly when running on unleaded - this I've done but I'm wondering if the new fuel also means new jets in the carbs?
I'm really excited at the prospect of it running again - must get home .........
Baggy

Set the engine up on your test stand, adjust the timing there, and run it though a series of break-ins and heat cycles. Do your first minor re-torque and check for any and all leaks. Then, and only then, install it in your chassis.


What do you mean "not everyone has an engine test stand?"

And yes, I'd be inclined to have the tank steam cleaned, or at least use some "Gum-Out" or similar to give it a wash.

[leifanten]

To check the inside of your fuel tank, drain it and remove the gauge sender unit. That gives you a very good visual to the condition of the inside of the tank. I replaced the sender unit, and found out upon inspection that my tank was "as new" inside despite having been stored for 20+ years since the car was last on the road.

In my experience, you do not have to retard the ignition if you run highest octane unleaded fuel. To the contrary, I have found that you can actually advance it slightly because the ethanol and lower quality fuel that is sold these days seem to "burn slower" or whatever the right term might be. Anyway, I have found the best way to set ignition is to do what you have done initially and then set it by dynamic mode afterwards. I.e. advance it slightly, run the car, repeat until you get slight pinging, then retard it just a tad. (This is a process you do very gently, so you dont damage the engine - there is a thread about it here somewhere)

I only have experience with Strombergs, and I run on the B1Y or B1G needles (I have both and I cannot remember which one I ended up with in the end - the leaner one of the two is the one I am running now)

With regards to the running in procedure for a rebuilt engine I found a bunch of info on that on this site by using the search function.

[summerinmaine]

Anyway, I have found the best way to set ignition is to do what you have done initially and then set it by dynamic mode afterwards. I.e. advance it slightly, run the car, repeat until you get slight pinging, then retard it just a tad. (This is a process you do very gently, so you dont damage the engine - there is a thread about it here somewhere).

As a long time shade tree mechanic, this used to be my method as well. We called it "power timing."

Then someone asked me about how I account for sub-audible knock (pinging or pinking). I didn't have a good answer, so now I use a timing strobe light, after degreeing my crankshaft pulley.

[fatboyoz]

Baggy,
When I woke my engine up after 22 years (and a full rebuild), I used a squeeze bottle full of engine oil (running-in type oil) connected to the oil pressure gauge connection (r/h front side of engine) to prime the oil pump. After I did this, oil pressure was available at initial cranking.
Colin.

Hello all,
I went to bed at 3:30 am this morning a happy man - my newly re-built engine was back in my +2. My aim is to have it running by the end of the weekend. I would be interested in your comments on the following.
The engine has not run for about 8 years. When I cleaned the carbs they were gummed up with a brown goo a bit like toffee - Am I to assume there is similar goo in the fuel tank and what should I do about it?
Because anything to do with the distributor is such a pain when the engine is in the car I have pre-set the timing to what I hope will be right - It should certainly run. The general advice is to retard the ignition slightly when running on unleaded - this I've done but I'm wondering if the new fuel also means new jets in the carbs?
I'm really excited at the prospect of it running again - must get home .........
Baggy

[Baggy2]

Well, thank you all for your comments. All taken on board but I must be an under-priveliged Elan owner in not having an engine test stand - no wind tunnel either - shame!
I have to report failure in the 'get it running this weekend' department - never mind.
I shall carry on avidly reading lotuselan.net and look forward to posting when it is going.
Thanks again
Baggy

[summerinmaine]

Well, thank you all for your comments. All taken on board but I must be an under-priveliged Elan owner in not having an engine test stand - no wind tunnel either - shame!

Well, to be perfectly honest, my engine test stand is still in the planning stages. But I can still dream (and not much else, unfortunately).

[kstrutt11]

The way I have always set timing by ear to allow for det you can't quite hear is as manufacturers used to do when calibrating the engines, advance up until you begining to hear pre-ignition then back off a couple of degrees from this, It's always worked for me.

I did manage to make a engine test stand for a rover V8 once, It was actually pretty simple, a triangle of Angle iron on the floor, A piece welded across one corner for the gearbox mount, brackets for the engine mounts along the side and a radiator mounted to legs on the front, a battery, electric fuel pump pumping from a can, some hoses and a few wires later it was up and running (with a couple of household fans blowing on the radiator).

[prezoom]

Jim,

I have a Stuska water brake dyno on wheels you can have cheap. Good to 200 horsepower. Or anyone else who wants to come and get it.

Rob

[summerinmaine]

Jim,

I have a Stuska water brake dyno on wheels you can have cheap. Good to 200 horsepower. Or anyone else who wants to come and get it.

Rob

I'm in. Do you have any more info on it? I'm currently hashing over plans for a DSO linked to a laptop for a display screen and the ability to send real time images for diagnostics.

If I can do all this in a package that will store easily, then I'm golden!