Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

I'm trying to clean up my super gummed up my DCOE 18s and I would like to fully dip them in Berryman's
Chem dip. So far the chemical dip has been working great on the small stuff and does a super cleaning
job on the top covers. But I'm concerned about part #16, Dust cover. I'm wondering if its leather and
might not stand up to the chemical dip. I can't get the parts in front of it off so its staying for now.

So, what's the consensus on dipping the carb body with the dust cover still installed?

I might add that right now, all gaskets have been removed.

Greg,. Your leather seals are most likely junk. They dry out from fuel vapors and start to leak over time and are a regular maintenance item. They are available, along with new springs and covers from the usual Weber parts dealers. Early carbs, like the 18's, also have non-sealed bearings, replacements are sealed, which helps with the life of the leather seals. If you decide to replace the bearings, you will also need the screws that retain the throttle plates. Before replacing the leather seals, it is a good idea to soak them in something like mink oil, which will also help them retain their sealing properties.

Why would you fit the leather seals if fitting sealed bearings ?

prezoom wrote:Before replacing the leather seals, it is a good idea to soak them in something like mink oil, which will also help them retain their sealing properties.

& I am not asking for that at Home Depot!!

Try Lowe's. Actually, it was Keith Franks that suggested mink oil. I have used leather conditioner in the past. When inspecting the replacement bearings, the so called seals didn't look all that good to me. I figured that adding the leather seals was just a little more insurance to keep unwanted air out.

I'm looking at rebuilding my Webbers soon too, will the whole body fit in that container? I was thinking of getting them water/soda/bead plasted, but if I can do this at home with less chance of media ending up in it that would be nice.

No, the whole body will not fit in the 1 gallon container.

Cellulose thinners works a treat... magic...
And the finish is excellent too
Cheers

To clean carburettors properly, they need to be first stripped and then into an ultrasonic tank filled with the correct liquid, that will both clean the alloy and desolve any fuel gum. Anything else is doing half the job.

I would not blast carbs with any media, you will do more harm than good, except vapour blasting, and that will not clean out the passages. What I am aiming for when cleaning / restoring carburettors, is the original finish, not some bright, blinging bauble.

Leslie

Hi

Beware of cleaning with chemical and solvents.

I once gave a friend in a industrial machine shop that had a cleaning tank for manufactured metal parts my carburettor
My 28/36 Weber came back a matt black colour I was devastated, although it performed perfectly.

I was lead to believe that Weber's have lacquer type coating from new although it has never been confirmed

I would second using an ultrasonic cleaner.

I did my Dellortos this way last year, using only flash floor cleaner in the water, and they came up fantastically well.

Jon

Keep that Berryman's off your hands. It smells terrible.

I use Chem Dip, but last year I tried a Simple Green soak on a tip from a friend. Amazed how well it worked on a set of Zenith 40 TINs.

shaun wrote:Why would you fit the leather seals if fitting sealed bearings ?

Just replaced the Throttle shafts, bearings & seals on my Webers; apparantly the sealed bearings are not airtight, the leather seals have a function.