Lotus Elan

Fuel line from tank to carbs

PostPost by: elaninfuture » Tue Nov 27, 2018 8:37 pm

Has anyone installed a fuel line through the frame without removing the body? How difficult is it? Are there another option for routing the line?

Also, I am considering installing a fuel cell rather than a stock tank. If you have done that, please let me know how you are running your fuel line and what type of line you are using.

Thank you, Joe
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PostPost by: bitsobrits » Tue Nov 27, 2018 9:25 pm

Joe,

I replaced the original nylon line in one of my Elans years ago with another nylon line. Was a challenge, but by removing the right hand seat, lifting the carpet and removing the large body plug on the right hand side of the tunnel
I was able to snake it through the frame openings. If if remember correctly, there was a clip on the underside top of the frame tunnel that I bent down to remove the old line, then bent back up to hold the new one.

Don't forget to tape up or otherwise plug the new line to keep out the inevitable grunge.
Steve

Elan S1 1963-Bourne bodied
Elan S3 1967 FHC pre airflow

Formerly:
Elan S1 1964
Elan S3 1966 FHC pre airflow
Elan S3 1967 FHC airflow
Elan S4 1969 FHC
Europa S2 1970
Esprit S2 1979
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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Tue Nov 27, 2018 9:29 pm

I replaced the original nylon fuel line from the tank to the engine bay with stainless tubing of similar size with the body on (but engine/trans out). Fished the line from the tank location through the same body grommet at the back and then through the frame. Since the tubing is relatively rigid, not too hard to fish it to the front. Used p-clips to secure.

Felt that the stainless line would be more robust than the original nylon (which, however, had never failed in 49 years and still looked good).
'69 Elan S4 SE
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PostPost by: Concrete-crusher » Tue Nov 27, 2018 10:43 pm

I did mine twice , first time I used 8mm copper tube and found it too soft , it bent and kinked as I pushed it through the grommets , so second attempt I used 8mm kunifer pipe much better but still difficult to feed between the body and chassis at the rear , then slide through the grommets at the rear and front of the chassis

But doable

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PostPost by: HAIRY » Tue Nov 27, 2018 11:17 pm

Try gluing the old pipe and the replacement pipe together and feed through from front to rear.
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PostPost by: wotsisname » Wed Nov 28, 2018 2:48 pm

I have done this (+2 with Spyder chassis). Propshaft and diff were out, engine & gearbox in place.
I was able to feed a replacement (PTFE) pipe from the rear. I seem to remember there was a clip at the front that I eased with a screwdriver.
1968 Elan plus 2 - project
2007 Elise S2 [modified with a Hethel 70th sticker (yellow)]
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PostPost by: elaninfuture » Wed Nov 28, 2018 6:51 pm

Thanks for the tips. I think I'm going to go with stainless steel. Glad to hear that it can be done. Is there a preferred diameter for the line?
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PostPost by: 1owner69Elan » Wed Nov 28, 2018 7:00 pm

Here is the stainless line I used:

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-220214

0.25 inch OD

It straightens out readily from the coil that is delivered. It is a pretty straight run from the rear to the front. At the front I bent it upwards to connect to my carbs. I have an electric fuel pump in the rear. I used AN fittings throughout - no leaks.

I fed it from the rear without a lot of issue.

Good luck.
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PostPost by: billwill » Sun Dec 02, 2018 4:43 pm

In my S3 Coupe, I fitted a kunifer (hard coppery) fuel line along the right hand side of the cabin, behind the trims and behind the sill zigzag strengtheners. It then enters the engine compartment near the carb airbox to a filer/ pressure-regulator, before going to the Dellortos..

Description and photos on my long topic, starting here:
lotus-elan-f19/getting-ogu-roadworthy-again-t26101-90.html#p178305
Bill Williams

36/6725 S3 Coupe OGU108E Yellow over Black.
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PostPost by: nmauduit » Sun Dec 02, 2018 4:58 pm

I fitted a braided line in my street elan after I installed a fuel pump in the trunk, to avoid the risk of the pump pushing the fuel through a damaged nylon line in case of a fire or accident. Like mentioned above, I remove the right hand seat to gain access to the transmission shaft tunnel and made a braket to attach it in that area. I also made a bracket to attach it to the chassis tunnel in front of the diff. I used a rubber protected clip to attach it to the frame when entering the bay area.

I left the original nylon line in place for the time being and reversibility (it is clipped on the chassis by small steel fasteners).

Not an pleasant job, even with a car lift (I crimped the carbs end of the braided line in situ to avoid removing the somewhat rigid braided line one more time and to avoid a larger hole in the trunk), but certainly doable.
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