Lotus Elan

+2 Fuel tank

PostPost by: alanr » Fri Aug 09, 2019 10:01 am

Looks like I have to replace my internally rusty fuel tank on my +2S130.
There are various alloy replacement tanks being offered by different vendors.The Axminster tank looks nice but a bit expensive although it does takes the original gauge sender unit. Is this a benefit I wonder?
P Matty one though is a cheaper. SJ one is cheaper still, but just wondering what the experience of others is with replacing the fuel tank? Do these replacement alloy tanks fit properly without modifications to straps, holes for banjo outlet/drain outlets etc.
Opinionst/Thoughts/Experiences please...

Thanks,

Alan.
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PostPost by: martinbrowning » Fri Aug 09, 2019 1:54 pm

Hi Alan,
My vote goes to Axminster; Andy W is a really nice guy to do business with. I have had two tanks from him - one for my S130 and one for my Sprint. Both fitted beautifully without problems.

Not the cheapest I agree but then again you get what you pay for and...how many times will you be doing this job?

Just my thoughts,

Martin B
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PostPost by: alanr » Sat Aug 10, 2019 1:18 pm

Hi Martin,
Thanks for the thoughts..
I have spoken with Andy W and he seems a good guy who will make me a nice tank. It is also good to know that a tank from him will fit perfectly without problems.I have no doubt that a tank from him is a nice thing and I will probably end up going down this route. However it just seems a tad expensive. With the delivery it comes to over £500! Yes I will be only doing it once but the original steel one has lasted nearly 50years so I am wondering if I need to spend that much.
Has anyone fitted a P Matty fuel tank?....that is quite a bit less and I can pick one up from there for a price af a gallon of fuel.
I was also wondering if there is anyone out there making possibly stainless steel ones, they would perhaps be cheaper and would still stand the test of time?

Alan.
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PostPost by: mbell » Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:18 pm

I'd assume most of the cost of the tank is labour not material, so stainless might save a bit of cost on materials but it may require more labour to weld. So I wouldn't expect it to make a maybe difference in price.

No idea on pm tank.

How bad is your tank? Mine just had a little bit of surface rust so I just had mine boiled out and coated for not very much money. Then por15 the outside. It's been fine, only issue is I couldn't free the drain plug but can just use electric pump to drain tank.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: alanr » Sat Aug 10, 2019 3:58 pm

The tank externally is not too bad and not leaking but I am having problems with rust sediment in the fuel pump and carbs and having taken the tank sender unit out I can see quite a few flakes of rust lying on the bottom of the tank. So I need to do something, the problem isn't going to go away and getting stuck at the side of the road is not much fun.
Your idea of having the tank internally cleaned though is certainly food for thought.
A Google search leads me to a company called Northern Radiators in Leeds, about 75miles from me, who say they can clean out a tank by cutting holes in it and then coat internally with a plastic coating. I just wonder though how successful it will be and how the plastic coating copes with fuel with Ethanol in it.
Worth a phone call on Monday maybe to see what they say.
Thanks for the thoughts..
Alan.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Aug 10, 2019 4:25 pm

I have used a kit which consisted of 3 things, 1 to clean in side Tank, 2 to neutralise rust and 3 a special resin.
No problems and a perfect result.
What you can do before using the kit is attach the Tank to to concrete mixer with loose nuts and bolts inside and leave turning to clean like a rumbler.
Alan
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PostPost by: alanr » Sat Aug 10, 2019 4:38 pm

Whooo Alan.... Attaching a petrol tank full of nuts and bolts to a concrete mixer made me really laugh out loud although I think you are being perfectly serious....Sounds a lot of fun!! :lol:
I think though now before I part with what I think is a lot of money I am going to explore the possibility of internal cleaning and treating.
My only concern is though am I just putting off the inevitable and 12months down the line wish I had just bitten the bullet and bought a new tank..Axminster, Matty, or whoever?
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PostPost by: mbell » Sat Aug 10, 2019 5:40 pm

You can buy products to do this your self but decided due to the nasty cleaning chemicals and general hasle it was a good one to out source. With the large filler neck on the +2 tank I'd doubt they need to cut holes in the tank.

It's worth checking on the ethanol but I'd be surprised if they used something that wasn't safe these days.

I'd carefully examine the tank just to make sure it's just surface rust and no structural type issues. If it checks out then there's no strong reason to buy the new tank imo.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sat Aug 10, 2019 8:39 pm

I used the kit of 3 products 4 yeas ago on the Fuel Tank of my 1978 TVR 3000S.
It has been perfect:since with no debris from the Fuel Tank and it cost about 60 gbp.I have fitted a glass cleanable filter at Tank Outlet and it's always clean so the product has for sure sealed the Tank.
It's a do and forget job, spot on.
Alan
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PostPost by: alanr » Sat Aug 10, 2019 8:56 pm

What was the name of the product you used Alan. Can you remember?
I see there are various brands some with mixed reviews.

Alan.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Sun Aug 11, 2019 6:05 am

I live in France Brittany and the tank sealer is made by "RESTOM".I would think you can get a product from "FROSTS" in the UK.
The most difficult is the last stage when you put the Resin inside and need to turn Tank in all directions for good coverage. I plugged the Sender hole with old Sender.
I could have bought a new alloy Tank but for the price i gave the Resin a try and have no regrets.
Good luck
Alan
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PostPost by: alanr » Sun Aug 11, 2019 4:30 pm

Thanks all for the thoughts and input....Much food for thought and really appreciated!
I haven't got the tank out of the car yet so I guess the way forward is to get it out and make a decision on the way forward then after further close internal inspection. Either slosh it myself, get it done professionally, or bite the bullet on a new expensive alloy tank!
I will keep you posted.

Alan.
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PostPost by: mbell » Sun Aug 11, 2019 5:10 pm

Sounds like a plan. FYI my tank was done with "redcoat", there is also a por15 product for fuel tanks.
'73 +2 130/5 RHD, now on the road and very slowly rolling though a "restoration"
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PostPost by: Donels » Mon Aug 12, 2019 6:36 pm

I have done the tank cleaning and sealing myself. You can use POR 15 sealant and their associated degreaser. I have to say it worked brilliantly.

The degreaser is very powerful and does an excellent job, then seal all holes except the biggest and poor the sealant in and rotate in every plane, but wear gloves, something like those from a filling station would be ideal. I didn't and the stuff took 10 embarrassing days to wear off.
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PostPost by: alanr » Tue Aug 13, 2019 6:51 am

Thanks for the information about POR-15. I will investigate.
Comment about the the gloves duly noted!!

Thanks,

Alan
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