Lotus Elan

+2 Fuel tank

PostPost by: mikealdren » Tue Aug 13, 2019 3:44 pm

I used POR15 (paint over rust) paint on the outside of my old tank and then a coat of their chassis black and I;m delighted with the results.
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PostPost by: alanr » Tue Aug 13, 2019 4:05 pm

It isn't the outside of the tank that is the problem. It is the inside in which I have rust flakes.
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Tue Aug 13, 2019 4:21 pm

Yes I understand that, just a commendation of POR products. My tank now has a rock hard coating that looks as though it will last for years.

I have a few flakes of rust moving inside but I expect they will probably stay there and a good fuel line filter should be adequate if they decide to move.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Tue Aug 13, 2019 8:49 pm

The rumbling operation with nuts bolts inside and turning on a concrete mixer will get rid of flaking rust inside. Before degrease and product to neutralise rust.
Then special resin imho is the best way
The resin seals and sticks anything inside tank.
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PostPost by: alanr » Wed Aug 14, 2019 11:42 am

Well after a couple of phone calls I can say that I won't be getting it cleaned/sealed professionally. The two companies I called each said £300-£325 +vat which is too close to the price of a new alloy tank so I won't be going down that route. Unless anyone knows of a reputable firm in the Midlands who would do it cheaper?
So back to the solution it seems being either I do it with POR-15 myself, which seems a bit of a nasty/hazardous process with indeterminate results, or I buy a new alloy tank. :(
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PostPost by: alanr » Sat Aug 17, 2019 8:46 pm

Ok...I have now got the tank out and I have more or less now decided to replace it. Previously I had thought that externally the tank was good but having now got it out , it is quite rusty on the bottom and maybe not worth trying to reseal it.
However in searching the various option for a replacement tank I have been reading about the effects of Ethanol on Aluminium Alloy fuel tanks and Jaguar and Ferrari owners seem quite concerned about this and are seemingly turning to stainless steel as a better fit and forget alternative.
Any thoughts?...
It would be good to hear from any of the guys across the pond where ethanol content is much higher than the UK is used...Any corrosion experiences with alloys tanks in Elans/+2's or any other classic cars?

Thanks,

Alan.
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PostPost by: pptom » Sun Aug 18, 2019 6:03 am

If you're in the midlands, theres one on ebay for £10 at the minute, looks decent enough, supposedly removed for an FIA replacemet. I got mine second hand for £20 and its perfect. Maybe worth a punt?
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PostPost by: alanr » Sun Aug 18, 2019 7:29 am

Thanks, I'll have a look.

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PostPost by: alanr » Mon Aug 19, 2019 3:57 pm

Just to conclude this thread. After much deliberation and research I have bitten the bullet and finally ordered an alloy tank from Axminster Panels. There were others a bit cheaper but for one reason or another I didn't fancy them.
Hopefully delivery Andy says will be in 3-4 weeks.
In the meantime whilst the tank is out and awaiting delivery the next deliberation is do I change the diff mountings...or do the even more ambitious task of taking the diff out to cure the oil leaks from the output shafts and pinion!.......and so it goes on...All good if expensive fun!
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Mon Aug 19, 2019 4:41 pm

To change seals and bearings on the output shafts you don't need to remove the Diff.
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PostPost by: alanr » Mon Aug 19, 2019 4:55 pm

Yes i know I can change the output seals but there is quite a bad leak from the pinion oil seal and although it is a bit risky changing it without a diff rebuild I might have a go.
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PostPost by: rdssdi » Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:24 pm

I used Axminster. Ordered a tank of smaller height to make room for rollover vents and fittings.
Attachments
100_0340.jpg and
initial installation
100_0169.jpg and
Tank as received
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PostPost by: JonB » Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:43 pm

alanr wrote:Yes i know I can change the output seals but there is quite a bad leak from the pinion oil seal and although it is a bit risky changing it without a diff rebuild I might have a go.


I've done this on mine with the diff out. Can't see a way to do it in situ as the propshaft is in the way. What I did was to mark the position of the nut and count turns out. Problem is I ignored that and wound it back in until the marks aligned and it felt tight. No leaks from the new seal but a funny hissing noise from the diff while driving along under acceleration or deceleration (but not at a constant speed). What I should have done (and will do now) is fit a new crush tube, then torque per specification.
Late 1972 Elan Plus 2S 130/5 - UK - Unit 50/1115L
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:19 pm

JonB wrote: What I did was to mark the position of the nut and count turns out. Problem is I ignored that and wound it back in until the marks aligned and it felt tight. .


I'm not saying you are advising it Jon but I've seen this (winding in to previous marks) advised before and could not see how it would work. Surely the point of a crush washer is it gets crushed to provide preload. If you take the load right off it does not spring back and uncrush itself. Return it to the original place and the washer is not being crushed any more. No preload.
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PostPost by: alanr » Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:46 pm

Jon,
The pinion crush tube is not set to a torque, it is set to a preload using a preload gauge. The amount that the crush tube is preloaded (read crushed) affects pinion mesh with the crownwheel. The drag of the oil seal is also taken into account when setting the preload when rebuilding a diff..
The official line always was and is that the pinion oil seal cannot be changed without a complete diff rebuild. However many years ago on Cortinas and other Ford cars I have managed to change the pinion oil seal by the 'tighten the pinion nut back to original position' and have got away with it, but it is always a big gamble if it will work. The consequence of not getting away with it definitely then results in a diff rebuild.
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