Lotus Elan

mechanica fuel pump removal

PostPost by: rdssdi » Wed Aug 21, 2019 5:52 pm

I am in the process of replacing my +2 fuel pump. My +2 has a Spyder Chassis. I doubt that is an issue.

How can the fuel pump bolts be removed? I have removed the forward bolt but am having a very difficult time with the rear bolt. All that I can get to fit in the small available space is a short wrench. It falls most times and backs out a fraction of the rotation when successful. Anyone devise a more productive way?

Thanks.

Bob
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PostPost by: david.g.chapman » Wed Aug 21, 2019 6:08 pm

It is tight around that area. I used an open ended spanner to remove the bolts, but it was a one flat rotation at a time job with having to turn over the spanner repeatedly. Takes ages.

I replaced the hex-headed bolts with Allen key headed bolts - now its much easier!

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PostPost by: rdssdi » Wed Aug 21, 2019 10:10 pm

Allen key bolts great idea.

I have an electric rechargeable right angle wrench / screwdriver. It is small. Wife purchased it for me years ago on a TV shopping channel. QVC. At the time I considered it a waste of money. I used it several times when nothing else would work.

I forgot about it. I will try it this evening. Even though it is small likely too large for such a tight space. Certainly not enough power to losen a tightened bolt. As I have loosened it somewhat may work.

Thanks.

Bob
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Thu Aug 22, 2019 7:10 am

Removing the rear bolt first will keep any spring loading from the mechanism held by the front bolt.
If you can get your hand in it may be loose enough to allow finger turning?
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PostPost by: nmauduit » Thu Aug 22, 2019 7:41 am

access can be challenging for some fasteners, I occasionally use crow foot wrenches, which enable to move the torquing point away to where a hand might fit...

71xvhbryp4l._sl1500_.jpg and
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PostPost by: lotusfan » Thu Aug 22, 2019 8:44 am

On the two seater Elan there is an access hole through the fibreglass in the passengers footwell (in a LHD car), just above the level of the chassis rail, to access the fuel pump. I don't know if the +2 has the same facility. It is closed with a grommet. Worth looking inside the engine compartment and if you can see it a bit of carpet removal would be required.
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Thu Aug 22, 2019 5:09 pm

Might try a 1/4" drive ratchet. Their 1/2" sockets are pretty small.
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PostPost by: rdssdi » Fri Aug 23, 2019 7:17 pm

A jointed ratchet will not work on the rear bolt. I did use that for removal of the front bolt.

The "crows foot" wrench will not fit either. I finally removed the rear bolt using patience and a "ratceting wrench" (spanner). Slow going but finally succeeded. If I were restoring a +2 now I would add an access panel in the trans tunnel. I also made good use of knee pads. With the many times I dropped the wrench they protected my knees. I have the car on jack stands with the right front wheel removed. Which makes wrench retrieval far easier.

When I restored the car I used -6 aeroquip braided hose for the fuel line. Runs the entire length. Actually two sections. Short from the tank to the fuel rear mounted fuel filter and a long section to the fuel pump. I am considering replacing with hard line from tank to filter and from filter to a short flex line at the pump.

What have other people done? Metal fuel line size? I have a Spyder chassis and would like to use "pinch" clamps on the chassis square tubes. May require holes and other clamps in the metal spaning between chassis tubes. Need to give it more thought. Does Spyder offer a fuel line kit?

Thanks.

Bob
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Fri Aug 23, 2019 8:45 pm

The standard fuel pipe is plastic with a compression fitting into the pump.
The combination of flexibility and stiffness makes it easy to thread through the chassis.
You may or may not be able to reach the 'clips" that hold it in place.it is quite common to see a jointing piece of flexible pipe at each end to make the final connection to pump and tank.
This is not a big deal with the mechanical pump as the supply is under suction.
Last edited by MarkDa on Mon Aug 26, 2019 6:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: alan.barker » Mon Aug 26, 2019 3:53 pm

A tip when fitting is to turn the Engine so the Cam Lobe for the Pump is in it's lowest position. That will mean less pressure on the Pump operating Lever.
Makes fitting much easier.
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PostPost by: m750rider » Mon Aug 26, 2019 4:34 pm

You should be able to get to the rear bolt fairly easily by removing the starter and coming from underneath
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PostPost by: MarkDa » Mon Aug 26, 2019 6:13 pm

Fairly is a relative term!
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PostPost by: prezoom » Mon Aug 26, 2019 10:10 pm

The most worth while tools in my garage are small magnets on the end of an extendable holder. I've got them everywhere. Saves bending and getting down on ones knees, especially the old knees.
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