Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Does anybody know what car the elan fuel tank sender came off? I have just rebuilt my car and the fuel gauge does not work. I have checked the gauge and the wiring and both work so I assume it must be the sender?

(Is there a good cource for replacement fuel tanks in the UK?)
Thanks

Carl

What series car? The earlier cars had a different resistance than the later cars. Bolt patterns on the tank might be different, too, but not sure.

Greg Z.
'72 Sprint

It's a late 72 Sprint (sounds a bit like yours...)

Unfortunately I don't know where they were sourced from. I wish I knew because from a Lotus source, the earlier ones are cheaper than our later ones; at least here in the states.

Greg Z.

I have seem them advertised in the UK for ?50 + tax, but that sounds like a lot for a float on a stick!! I have been offered a different unit for less but don't know if it will work or even fit!

Carl,

Before you give up on the sender, take it out and put an ohm meter across it to see if the resistance changes as you move the lever. I'm not sure what the correct resistance should be, but if it changes, at least you'll have a clue that the sender might not be bad after all. If it doesn't change, open it up and see if you can fix it. It could be something as minor as a bad solder connection.

Frank
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota

For the Smith's fuel gauge the resistance from the rheostat (wire coil) in the fuel tank sender should range between 0 to 100 ohms. Rebuilt mine about 6 months ago so the info has not faded away yet.
-Keith

What did you have to do to rebuild it? It sounds like a good option.

Carl

Hi Carl,
Only did it myself after having it done professionally and it did not work. Found out it had been repaired by the Three Stooges. Have alook at the quality of the repairs. They broke off one of the plastic D-shaped protruding nubs from the end of the rheostat body but instead of installing a new one they glued on a piece of WOOD and stuck it all together. The male plastic nubs are suppose to be wedged very tightly into the steel housing and if you look top and bottom at the picture you'll see the female indentations that are there to hold it in place. The bit of wood did not work and the rheostat was rattling around loose when I opened the unit up for an inspection. Next they added a copper grounding wire to the float contact wiper that touches the coils on the rheostat and completes the electrical signal. Great idea but that copper wire has to flex and any idiot knows copper work hardens when flexed and eventually breaks or binds the mechanism. What really peeved me though is they left in place the forty year old rubber seal which seals the electric post that penetrates the sender flange. When I inspected it by proding it with a screwdriver it disintegrated into goo. If that seal leaks it will try and fill the boot up with petrol. I insisted they supply me with a new rheostat and decided to install it myself because their creditability is gone forever after observing this level of shoddy workmanship. They will NEVER get my business again. Installing it properly is a real pain to do. If you can find a source for the rheostat then I can talk you throught the process. It was expense too and I did not get a full refund just the new rheostat.
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-Keith

Had a look at your photos...Pretty nasty!!