Front & Rear Suspension Components Colour/s.

[TeeJay]

Hi

Front & Rear Suspension Components Colour/s.

At long last I am in a situation were I can rebuild My 1968 Elan+2, which I purchased in Aug 1975.
I bought a "new" Lotus Galvanised chassis back in 19....89, and these have since remained in one half of my garage.
Some 18 years of dust!!!!.javascript:emoticon(':oops:')
Embarassed

Finally I have the time and my entire double garage to myself.
Body in one half and the chassis in the other.
Completed the mark off, drill and tap all chassis holes and am about to sand blast and paint all Front and Rear suspension components.javascript:emoticon(':D')
Very Happy

I have searched the forums for the paint/colour of these parts. Found some info i.e. Hammerite Satin Black.

Can someone please confirm that the Wishbones, coil springs and other metal parts (other than the discs) are satin black?

Thanks for any info provided.

[Elanintheforest]

Satin Black it is, Trevor. Have you thought of getting the components powder coated? It's now a very strong process, and will last a long, long time, unlike the plastic coating that preceeded it.

I've had very mixed resilts with hammerite, with some suspension components rusting back after just a year. I stripped right back to bare metal, then covered the metal in jenolite (and then removed it) to make sure all the rust was gone. I think it came back due to the hammerite being very brittle and chipping very easily...I won't be using it again.

Great to hear that another early Plus 2 is being restored...too many have ended up on eBay in bits recently. What are your plans...originality or upgrade? Post a couple of pics on the site.

I bought my S3 coupe in '75, but was forced to complete a chassis change within a couple of years...they didn't last too long in those days. Still have her, of course, and now she's joined by a couple of Plus 2s as well. I think you'll find it's illegal to have one Elan on its own...a new European cruelty act.
Mark

[TeeJay]

Mark, thanks for your fast reply.

While researching the forums re colour, I read many comments re Powder Coating. Some good, others not so good, re chipping and rusting.
But I note your comment re Hammerite and will now look at Powder Coating.

As to my plans, it will be rebuild as close to the original as possible. I know this is not economic and it may take 1 to 2 years or more. Lots to do, but I have all the parts that I took off when I removed the old chassis. As to what needs to be done to each of these will be revealed as the project unfolds.

I will upload some pics in the next day or 2.

Looks like I may get locked up re this new EU law. What with a wife, Lotus, Boat and RX300 to provide for, looking after a 2nd Lotus could stretch me.
Unless one had to go?? now which one??

[dsly1]

Wife wife the wife has to go..................

[types26/36]

Wife wife the wife has to go..................

no..no..no...who would help to bleed the brakes, push the Lotus when the battery is flat, scrub the deck on the boat and cook in the galley?
Sell the RX 300......got to admit that I had to go onto the net to find out what a RX 300 is though

[stuartgb100]

RX 300 ......... That's about as good as a spare room (vbg) !!

You must not sell it !!

You will need it when the wife finds out how much time (and money) you are spending on the Lotus.

And yes, they will find out !!

Now, I may have a nice little tent for your back garden ........ would you consider trading that for your "spare room" ? Lots of peace and quiet during a time of domestic strife !!

Regards,
Stuart.

[mikealdren]

Trevor,
Good luck with the bodywork. Don't skimp on repairing any damage and filling unnecessary holes in the cabin (to avoid leaks).

For the paint, I've used 2 part epoxy in the past with great results. The last I used came from a marine supplier but Rustbuster (www.rust.co.uk) may aslo be able to help They are the main supplier of Dinitrol - seems excellent stuff so far but it is brown and this is a disadvantage compared with the cler Waxoyl. However all the tests say Dinitrol works better.

I've used stainless bolts in non stress areas (such as chassis fitting) however I've been warned that they tend to pick up is screwed into steel so use with bobbins and where they have their own nuts (e.g. sill bottoms)

Mike

[TeeJay]

Hi,
I have uploaded a few pics of my Elan +2 and I will say that I have found the forum very useful for giving me the inspiration for the rebuild. I do realise that it will take a lot of dedication (and cash) but seeing the many successful results and the support given is very encouraging.

The body needs to be completely stripped of its red paint (it was originally white) and all repair work as necessary carried out.

Also I have decided, with some difficulty, that I will continue to provide for all. I did think about exchanging the RX300 for the tent !! but then thought that when I get yelled at by the wife for all the time and money spent on the +2, then it would be safer to escape to the RX300. (Better soundproofing) (':wink:')
Wink

That you all for your comments.

Regards

[stuartgb100]

Quote:

I did think about exchanging the RX300 for the tent !! but then thought that when I get yelled at by the wife for all the time and money spent on the +2, then it would be safer to escape to the RX300. (Better soundproofing) ('')
Wink

........... Good thinking. And probably a darned quicker getaway, as well !!!

Good also to see that you're going to take the plunge and see the restoration through. There will be some very low times, I suspect .....

If I may suggest, see if there are others near you. Another pair of eyes/ears/hands etc work wonders when times are at a low ebb.

Best Wishes and good luck,

Stuart.

(still with the tent) .... bugger !

[stuartgb100]

Quote:

I did think about exchanging the RX300 for the tent !! but then thought that when I get yelled at by the wife for all the time and money spent on the +2, then it would be safer to escape to the RX300. (Better soundproofing) ('')
Wink

........... Good thinking. And probably a darned quicker getaway, as well !!!

Good also to see that you're going to take the plunge and see the restoration through. There will be some very low times, I suspect .....

If I may suggest, see if there are others near you. Another pair of eyes/ears/hands etc work wonders when times are at a low ebb.

Best Wishes and good luck,

Stuart.

(still with the tent) .... bugger !

[TeeJay]

Hi,
Thanks to all, for your assistance.
Thought it was now time for an update with some photos.
Started the rebuild project in June 07 with the Chassis and sub assemblies.
How time flies when you are having fun.
Added Brian Bucklands ? ?Rebuilding of a Lotus Elan? to my Miles Wilkins ? ?Lotus Twin Cam Engine? and original Lotus Workshop Manual. Also spent many hours viewing this forum with its excellent contributions.
I decided to sandblast most chassis metal components and sub assemblies, cleaned, applied 2 pack Epoxy Anode Zinc and 2 pack Mastic 121, both from Rustbuster.
The galvanised Chassis had aged for some 18yrs, so it also had the Mastic 121.
This kept the components in my control and time scales, spreading the costs and also prevented any components losses.
A coating of Tectyl Rust Preventative was applied to the Chassis and sub assemblies.

All bushes, rubber mounts, bearings, shocks, seals, brake pistons, brake pipes fasteners etc were replaced.
One small problem. I had to make a spacer for the rear drive shaft as a PO had replaced the shaft with a wide bearing type, but the housing was of the narrow bearing type.

The engine and body will have the most significant costs and I have only just started on the engine.
Looks like a few more treats for the wife will be required as the costs of the rebuild escalate up.

But the thought of getting the +2 back on the road after some 18yrs will make it all worth while, although it?s still many months away.

Trevor

[sulzeruk]

Hi all, I am in the process of putting the suspension back on my Plus 2. I have used a British Rail spec 81 primer from T and R Williamson. It comes in a 5 litre can and is about ?35 a go I think. It stick to absolutely anything including oily surfaces. I have wire brushed some loose paint off my chassis, particularly on the vacuum tank at the front of the chassis. All of the suspension components front and back have been blasted and primed, just need to top coat the black now. Also use the Williamsons gloss or satin black for that as well.
AL Cowan

[tawnyowl]

Pretty well all of the metal parts were originally finished with a quick once over in industry standard satin black. It didn't last. The important thing is to get a really good primer on and then cover with the satin black for effect.

On advice from someone who knew I used 'bondaprimer' essentially a marine product. There may be other options nowadays but realisticly it's not a difficult problem to solve.

Tawny