Rear strut
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Hi
I have stripped my rear struts back to bare metal and am ready to paint them. My question is what should I use to prevent the alloy casting from oxidising? The powdery white finish is not really what I am going for, has anyone used any products to protect alloy castings? I do not really want to prime and paint them but would rather something like a metal polish?
I have seen the alloy wheel cleaners/protectors but these are for lacquered wheels.
Any thoughts??
Jason
I have stripped my rear struts back to bare metal and am ready to paint them. My question is what should I use to prevent the alloy casting from oxidising? The powdery white finish is not really what I am going for, has anyone used any products to protect alloy castings? I do not really want to prime and paint them but would rather something like a metal polish?
I have seen the alloy wheel cleaners/protectors but these are for lacquered wheels.
Any thoughts??
Jason
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Jason1 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 03 Nov 2005
Hi Chris
Thanks for the response, the trouble with paint is that if it gets chipped it flakes off. I was hoping there was something like alloy wheel cleaner which could be used on non lacquered alloy. Does the lacquer stick to the alloy without a primer?
Cheers
Jason
Thanks for the response, the trouble with paint is that if it gets chipped it flakes off. I was hoping there was something like alloy wheel cleaner which could be used on non lacquered alloy. Does the lacquer stick to the alloy without a primer?
Cheers
Jason
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Jason1 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 03 Nov 2005
I used this stuff:
http://www.carcoon.co.uk/csp%20fluid.htm
As recommended in this thread:
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=67071&highlight=#67071
http://www.carcoon.co.uk/csp%20fluid.htm
As recommended in this thread:
http://www.lotuselan.net/forums/viewtopic.php?p=67071&highlight=#67071
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Robbie693 - Coveted Fifth Gear
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- Joined: 08 Oct 2003
Jason1 wrote:
Does the lacquer stick to the alloy without a primer?
Cheers
Jason
Well some are better than others, the lacquer that wheel companies? use will be the tough'ist. But it is just paint and it's in a pretty harsh environment on a day-to-day car, yet it can still last quite a while.
Chris.
- christoph
- New-tral
- Posts: 14
- Joined: 31 May 2006
I have the struts out and will also be looking for a finish. How about clear powder coat, once the old oxidation is off?
Andrew Bodge
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
'66 Elan S2 26/4869
I love the sound of a torque wrench in the morning. Sounds like... progress.
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RotoFlexible - Fourth Gear
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- Joined: 01 Sep 2005
There's an aircraft product (alodine or anodine not sure which) that stops aluminium from oxidising, but imparts a yellow colour.
Colin.
Colin.
Jason1 wrote:Hi
I have stripped my rear struts back to bare metal and am ready to paint them. My question is what should I use to prevent the alloy casting from oxidising? The powdery white finish is not really what I am going for, has anyone used any products to protect alloy castings? I do not really want to prime and paint them but would rather something like a metal polish?
I have seen the alloy wheel cleaners/protectors but these are for lacquered wheels.
Any thoughts??
Jason
- fatboyoz
- Fourth Gear
- Posts: 693
- Joined: 04 Oct 2003
Hi Guys
Anodising is nothing more than a controlled oxidised layer of uniform molecular grain structure of Aluminium oxide. In this form it imparts protection to the virgin aluminium underneath being a stabilised compound which will not oxidise any further. The colours found in anodised coating are nothing more than a dye. The Swiss army knife is the most common example. The only drawback is if you scratch the anodised layer, then oxidisation will occur and eat under the surrounding area. Aluminium oxide is very hard, grinding wheels are made of it, and will resist scouring to some degree but is very brittle so will stone chip easily.
Tough paints with good self etching primers are the answer. Wheel paints as mentioned previously and brake caliper paints as any good proprietary baked stove enamelling are suitable.
My old gran had an electric oven with a stove enamelled finshed. I think it must have been at least 50 years old when we dumped it. Not a mark on it. The products used in that would not get past the safety/environmental police these days.
Gordon Lund
Anodising is nothing more than a controlled oxidised layer of uniform molecular grain structure of Aluminium oxide. In this form it imparts protection to the virgin aluminium underneath being a stabilised compound which will not oxidise any further. The colours found in anodised coating are nothing more than a dye. The Swiss army knife is the most common example. The only drawback is if you scratch the anodised layer, then oxidisation will occur and eat under the surrounding area. Aluminium oxide is very hard, grinding wheels are made of it, and will resist scouring to some degree but is very brittle so will stone chip easily.
Tough paints with good self etching primers are the answer. Wheel paints as mentioned previously and brake caliper paints as any good proprietary baked stove enamelling are suitable.
My old gran had an electric oven with a stove enamelled finshed. I think it must have been at least 50 years old when we dumped it. Not a mark on it. The products used in that would not get past the safety/environmental police these days.
Gordon Lund
- gordonlund
- Second Gear
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- Joined: 21 Jan 2007
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