Brake Master Cylinder

PostPost by: handi_andi » Thu Jul 05, 2007 10:04 pm

I need to replace or refurbish the brake master cylinder on my 1972 elan plus 2 130. The cap is correded onto the body and the cylinder is leaking. Can anyone tell me whether the 0.70" master cylinder off the triumph GT6 fits my car as I can get this alot cheaper than the lotus one. Alternatively can someone tell me where i can get a new cap as well as cylinder refurb kit please.
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PostPost by: Frank Howard » Fri Jul 06, 2007 6:59 am

Andy,

I removed the servos on my Europa Special and I just replaced the .875" tandem master with a .700" tandem master from a Spitfire. I'm not too pleased with it so far because the pedal travel is now excessive. Also, Triumph mounts their masters high up in the engine compartment and backwards as they use a lever to push the piston toward the rear of the car when you push the pedal. As a result, the brake pipes connect on the wrong side if you have a tandem system. If you are going for the single system, the outlet pipe is in the center, so it doesn't matter.

On the other hand, if you are planning on rebuilding the one you have, all the usual suspects stock rebuild kits. If your cap has corroded on to the cylinder, you must have a single system with a metal cap because the tamdem masters have plastic caps and plastic reserviors.

My Elan came without a servo and the brakes work great, so I'm guessing that the bore on that tandem master is .700". If anyone knows for sure, I'd lbe interested in knowing without taking it apart.
Frank Howard
'71 S4 SE
Minnesota
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:00 am

Andy,
I think that late cars like yours should have a plastic fluid level sensor held by a steel ring, if it's a plain cap like the clutch cap, it's wrong. (see photo)
The bore is important because it determines the pedal loads and travel. Bigger bore, less travel but higher pedal loads for the same fluid pressure.
Fluid capacities are also important; the cylinder has to be able to displace enough fluid to move the caliper pistons. Too small a bore may not displace enough fluid before running out of travel.
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Fri Jul 06, 2007 8:29 am

New Master cylinders come with a metal cap and you can buy the caps separately. Paul Matty do them amongst others.

Having said that, the +2 should have a low level sender thing instead of a cap, if it's one of these you want then I think they are quire difficult get get hold of, definitely not available new..

Edit - Beat me to it Mike!
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PostPost by: handi_andi » Fri Jul 06, 2007 9:37 am

Thanks guys I had appreciated the brake master cylinder reservoir was so much larger, ahving declined to go out in the torrential rain last night to have a look. Looks like a call to Paul Matty will be required, least that way I can also order a fuel gauge sender unit so I don't have to rely on guess work anymore! LOL
Thanks
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PostPost by: archigator » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:29 pm

I've been told that the original Girling master cylinders are no longer available new. I had mine relined with a brass sleeve at Sierra Specialty Automotive http://www.brakecylinder.com They did a great job and were pretty fast. The brass sleeve will increase its usefull life indefinitely.

My '71 Elan Sprint master cylinder cap was stuck as well, so I finally got it off with an oil filter removal tool (trashed the cap in the process). I bought a new cap (the flater metal one) at Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies. They have the caps but not the master cylinders!

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/produc ... RecId=1107

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PostPost by: garyeanderson » Fri Jul 06, 2007 1:52 pm

Frank Howard wrote:Andy,

I removed the servos on my Europa Special and I just replaced the .875" tandem master with a .700" tandem master from a Spitfire. I'm not too pleased with it so far because the pedal travel is now excessive. Also, Triumph mounts their masters high up in the engine compartment and backwards as they use a lever to push the piston toward the rear of the car when you push the pedal. As a result, the brake pipes connect on the wrong side if you have a tandem system. If you are going for the single system, the outlet pipe is in the center, so it doesn't matter.

On the other hand, if you are planning on rebuilding the one you have, all the usual suspects stock rebuild kits. If your cap has corroded on to the cylinder, you must have a single system with a metal cap because the tamdem masters have plastic caps and plastic reserviors.

My Elan came without a servo and the brakes work great, so I'm guessing that the bore on that tandem master is .700". If anyone knows for sure, I'd lbe interested in knowing without taking it apart.


Europa brakes have a pair of drums with wheel cylinders, these take a fair amount of fluid to actuate. The Elan with 4 wheel disk brakes do not need the volume that the Europa does unless your rotors are warped and knock the pads and pistons back into the caliper bores. You can use a 5/8 or a .700 inch bore master cylinder without issues if every thing is within spec on the Elan. At least I do... The plus 2 with its wimpy pedal assembly mounting and booster(s) is another kettal of fish.

Gary
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PostPost by: handi_andi » Fri Jul 06, 2007 2:04 pm

Knew I should have gone with my first instinct and goen for the cheaper option on the grounds that Elan was built from Part Bin components and therefore a Triumph GT6 Master Cylider would fit. Not to worry, have gone ahead and orderred a new one from the helpful people at Paul Matty's.

Thanks for all your help though.

Andy
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