Lotus Elan

Removing Rear Disc

PostPost by: tdafforn » Tue Nov 04, 2003 8:18 pm

I am in the middle of rebuilding the rear suspension on my +2 and I have just got the rear upright off.
My question is should the rear disc come off the stub axle easily once the outer donut is off? mine seems very reluctant to come off (thhe bolts refuse to budge even when "persuaded" with a big hammer!
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tim
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PostPost by: gjz30075 » Tue Nov 04, 2003 8:31 pm

Tim,
Bolts for the disc come out from the upright between the strut and caliper mounting. Sounds as if you need some force to get yours out. Don't forget the anti-sieze on re-assembly.

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Wed Nov 05, 2003 11:58 am

Tim

Dont hammer to hard if you cant get the bolts out unless you are planning on replacing the wheel bearing as the hammer blows will damage the bearings. Extremely heavy hammer blows can damage the bearing mounts in the alloy housing also.If the bolts are corroded into the donut then cut off the bolt heads with an angle grinder or hacksaw and pull off the donut and bolts from the other end. The bolts even if heavily corroded can be driven through the spider and disk holes relatively easily, its the longer sleeve in the donut that they can corrode into and be totaly non removable with all normal means.

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PostPost by: tdafforn » Wed Nov 05, 2003 2:34 pm

Rohan,
thanks for the advice, the upright was removed because the bearings are toast. Rotoflex was rusted to the bolts but is now removed (looks like whoever last did this hadn't heard of antiseize!). I take you advice about damaging the bearing/circlip grooves.
Perhaps I should concentrate on getting the hub off. Now theres another story, I have got the suggested puller (top-hat shaped bit of steel that sits under the spin-on nut) and have tighted the nut as far as I can go with the hammer, but no sign of the hub letting go. I have also given the hub a tap with a hammer to"encourage" it but no go! Any suggestions?
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PostPost by: elj221c » Wed Nov 05, 2003 3:21 pm

Try using an electric hot air paint stripper. Play the heat over the back part of the hub close as you can go to the stub axle, maintaining the pressure on the puleer. (pusher?). Be warned that it may come off with a bit of a bang! ;)

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PostPost by: rgh0 » Fri Nov 07, 2003 9:05 am

Tim
Once you have got some tension on the puller and it does not move which is usually the case then heat is required.

I warm the taper area of the hub with an oxy torch and it usually comes off with a bang after a minute or two when it gets to a couple of hundred degrees. if its really stuck on hard a couple of heat and cool cycles wil ultimately move it.

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PostPost by: tdafforn » Fri Nov 07, 2003 3:21 pm

Unfortunately I don't have Oxy :( and surely it would melt the alloy?
Will try a propane torch tonight if I have time?
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Sat Nov 08, 2003 9:05 am

Tim

A propane torch should be fine. You dont need a lot of heat, I just use Oxy because thats what I have. The wheel hub is cast iron so no risk of melting if you are just heating it to a couple of hundred degrees to get it off the shaft. You have to be a lot more careful heating the suspension hub which is aluminium.

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