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Koni rear +2 adjustment setting

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 9:56 am
by JonB
Hi

I've just come into a set of rear Koni adjustable shock absorbers and I'm seeking advice on what the correct setting is. The problem is, they cannot be adjusted once fitted so I have to get them right first time.

http://images.lotuselan.net/lel/21098/0/img001.jpg

I've had a look and several people are saying they should be one half turn back from "full hardness". Can anyone verify this (or otherwise), please?

Secondly, these Konis don't have split pin holes, is that normal? If so, how do I stop the castellated top nuts from coming loose in operation?

Also, these Konis have oil in them, which I can hear sloshing around. Are they supposed to be full with no air gap?

Thanks
JonB

Re: Koni rear +2 adjustment setting

PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2019 1:19 pm
by nmauduit
Hi,

it is relatively easy to assess the full setting range of the red Konis (I assume 86-1371) at the bench, following the instructions that you quoted. If you're after a road setting I would rather turn up a bit from full softness... If they are used and of unknown history, you may lean on the harder side a notch (half a turn if the range is several turns turns). So gathering more input regarding actual setting may be of use...
For my S4se I have installed stronger springs for fast road (120 pound/inch) and have raised the damping settings accordingly, my thinking being that with reduced travel for a given perturbation you need to dampen quicker to avoid oscillations (underdampening).

Also if in doubt you may have them tested and balanced at a proper shock shop (I've had that done on a set, for about £75 iirc, they set it on a actuating setup and adjust hardness till booth match): in my case there was about 1/4 turn difference. Then you need to keep this difference when you adjust to maintain (approximately) this balance.

If you're game they can even be opened and the oil changed... though having that done would cost probably half the price of a new pair. I'm planning to do that to insert a travel restriction bushing to match my solid driveshafts. Maybe in 2019?

As for split holes, you may drill them if you feel you need them : they are at the top of the flat section, in the long direction (I can post a photo if of use).

Regarding the sloshing, I assume this happens when they have been stored horizontally. If kept vertically and actuated a couple times, the air should move to the top and stay, and the actuating effort should be constant along the travel range (though different upward from downward).