Lotus Elan

Hub removal plan B

PostPost by: davidj » Tue May 21, 2019 4:43 pm

Afternoon,

I am afraid I could do with some suggestions/advice for one of the the most talked about subjects, hub removal. I have read all the articles on this site and in the manual "The rebuilding of a Lotus Elan" and realise a normal puller cannot be used. I have purchased the tool as recommended by Brian Buckland, (£30 for a spacer and set screw) and have successfully removed one hub.

However, the second one will not budge. I have hit the spinner much harder than I would like, heated the hub with two blow touches, left it for several days under tension, repeated the process numerous times, swore at it frequently but it still will not budge! The centre hole in the end of the shaft is now much bigger due to the pressure from the set screw, and I am worried I am soon going to damage something.

Any other suggestions would be most welcome. The bearing housing is issue 16 and it is off the car.

Thanks in advance :)

David
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PostPost by: USA64 » Tue May 21, 2019 7:13 pm

I used a saws-all from edge toward center. It cracked and came off when I got close to the center. I was forewarned of trouble by the torch marks and beat-up appearance.
We are supposed to be having fun, are we not?
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PostPost by: RichardHawkins » Tue May 21, 2019 8:39 pm

Dave,

Where are you? I have a hydraulic hub puller that might help.

Richard Hawkins
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PostPost by: vxah » Tue May 21, 2019 10:46 pm

I put mine in a 50 ton press today, took some thinking and faffing about with blocks and bars to get far enough under the hub flange.. didn’t need only a few tons to bang off though. I’ve tried before with a spacer under the spinner and failed.
Not anywhere near Cambridge are you?
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PostPost by: Emma-Knight » Wed May 22, 2019 8:32 am

Put the hub ubwards. Heat water to about 80 deg C. Fit the hub remover assy and tighten up (not too hard). Pour the water into the five little "pools" of the hub.
The warming goes evenly around the center. Hub may come off with only little force. Thats how it went with my hubs, sitting there since 1971. not comming off with normal heat and more than one meter leverage
The water comes quick and to the right place, not allowing the rest to heat up and so give the diameter difference.
Anna
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PostPost by: davidj » Wed May 22, 2019 11:29 am

Thanks very much for your suggestions. :D :D :D I am in Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK.

I will give the water trick a go first. I have a 6 ton press but was concerned about damaging the hub or bearing housing. There is very little space between the hub and the housing, and the hub is tapered so loading evenly will be difficult. However, I may have to give it a go.

I will let you know how I get on.

Cheers,

David,
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Wed May 22, 2019 8:50 pm

I use a bearing splitter to get between the hub and strut when putting it in a press or if using a hydraulic puller if its on the car still

cheers
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PostPost by: davidj » Thu May 23, 2019 10:21 am

Morning,

Unfortunately the water trick did not work so I am open to other suggestions! I don't have a bearing splitter, but can see how it could but used to support the rear of the hub as the shaft is pressed out. My concern is damaging the hub or the bearing housing; I have read so many horror stories about hub removal!

Any other words of advice would be welcome.

Cheers,

David
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PostPost by: nigelrbfurness » Thu May 23, 2019 1:14 pm

Make a solid (3.5mm) washer. Screw a plain (non nyloc) retaining nut down just beyond the first thread on the shaft. What you want is for the top of the nut and the tip of the shaft to be level so your thrust washer loads both the nut and the shaft end. Place your homemade washer over the end of the shaft and screw on your removal tool with the centre screw well screwed down so you can hold it against the washer and keep it in place. Now you can gradually screw the tool on, unscrewing the centre screw as you go but keeping light pressure on the washer. When you have the tool screwed well onto the hub threads, tighten the centre screw hand tight with a spanner to keep the washer in place. Now torque the centre screw up to 75lbsft. Heat the hub with OA carefully moving the torch around to heat it evenly until it is hot enough to char a match stick touched to any point on the hub. Let it cool then torque the centre screw up to 80lbs. Repeat the heating/cooling process and on the second or third heating cycle you will hear it release. I've never failed to get one off using that technique. Don't bother with a propane torch from DoItAll, l can fart hotter lol. You need to get the hub very hot to free it from the taper. Good luck!
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PostPost by: davidj » Thu May 23, 2019 4:16 pm

Thanks for your reply but I think you are describing another type of removal tool. Mine has a set screw in the middle of a boss which is sandwiched between the hub and the inside of the spinner. Tightening the spinner applies pressure to the hub and shaft. I am not impressed with the design or the cost, but one hub has been successfully removed using it.

Just struggling with the second......
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PostPost by: elanman999 » Thu May 23, 2019 7:20 pm

Have you tried a stout puller like the in the pic. If yes then I've nothing to offer. If no and fancy a 80m round trip to North Yorks then PM me. I can't guarantee success but I'll give it a go.
dsc00577rs.jpg and

Cheers
John
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Thu May 23, 2019 7:52 pm

Not good news I'm afraid but I've been down exactly the same road .

viewtopic.php?f=42&t=42832

Nothing worked including the big screw on pullers featured above. All that happened was the
shaft thread was damaged. So I would advise getting a blind sleeve to fit over the thread .

In the end I gave up and took it to a machine shop. They made up the sleeve and got
the hub off with a hydraulic press. Also got the shafts out and checked them for running true.

Good luck!

Vince
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PostPost by: davidj » Tue May 28, 2019 9:07 pm

Update.

Johns heavy duty puller together with large amounts of heat finally managed to remove the hub. Advice, don't bother with the sjsportscars puller which uses the lotus spinner. It is not up to the job and it's use is likely to damage the spinner or shaft.

Thanks for all the suggestions and offers of help.

David.

elanman999 wrote:Have you tried a stout puller like the in the pic. If yes then I've nothing to offer. If no and fancy a 80m round trip to North Yorks then PM me. I can't guarantee success but I'll give it a go.
DSC00577rs.jpg

Cheers
John
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PostPost by: ceejay » Thu May 30, 2019 6:13 am

With the correct tools, most things will pull apart without too much cussing.
For heating the hub, you need the heat from and Oxy Acet torch, commonly called a Gas Axe, but you don't have to do anything brutal... just apply an even all over heat in far less time than those dinky butane gas burners.

DO NOT EVER place the puller pressure screw into the centre drilling of the hub axle, continued pressure and hammering will only spread the end making it difficult to screw the big nyloc on or off.

Machine up a tubular anvil to take the pressure, of which should be applied to the shoulder of the hub shaft NOT on the end of the threaded spigot.

You might like to read the article below for some ideas, it deals mainly with bolt-on hubs, but principle is the same.

A good workshop, equipped with good tools, even DIY made tools is the essence of good maintenance on your lotus elan.
http://elantrikbits.com/lotus-elan-blog/elan-rear-bolt-on-hub-puller/
Give tools to those who can use them.
Provide land to people who want to grow
things.
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