Wishbone R&r Query

[klev]

The Workshop Manual maintains the wishbones can be removed and replaced with the rest of the rear suspension intact - as long as one jacks the bearing housing in order to remove the weight from the suspension. Is it really possible to do this and still be able to align the bearing housing and the outer wishbone when reinstalling?

Also - when tightened to spec, the outer wishbone bolt ends touch each other. I was advised not to use a washer at the bolt head (no washer shown in WM illustrations either) due to clearance issues. I am using the thin-head bolts here. Should I simply shorten them (grinder, hacksaw etc) or was I misadvised re: necessity for a washer.

Thanks and Happy Motoring

[types26/36]

Klev,
Yes, it is no problem to remove & install the w/bones as long as the inner bolts were originally fitted the correct way round, to line the holes I use a rod (screwdriver) and I do not jack up the strut, I think you might have a prob if you were to jack up the strut.
Dont know why your bolts touch each other (maybe wrong bolts?) I use a washer under the head, between w/bone & strut and under the nut and I have no clearence probs. I did thin out the bolt heads myself. If the bolts are suitable I would shorten them slightly.
Rgds Brian.

[types26/36]

Klev,
Forgot to say if you jack up suspension free be aware it puts a LOT of strain on the rubber drive shaft coupleings.
Brian.

[rgh0]

The 2 outer wishbone bolts should be a slightly different length to match the different length of the casting they run through and the clearance between them is small. If you have 2 long bolts ( and maybe 2 shorter ones in the other side) then the 2 long ones would hit.

Rohan

[gjz30075]

Yes, no need to jack up the strut. Just let it hang. Follow Rohan's advice on the bolts. If you find swapping two of them doesn't do the trick, source them from a proper vendor to get the right lengths and proper shank length.

[klev]

Thank you all for the advice!

On reading your responses, I went back to theWM. It actually reads: "raise just sufficient to take the weight of the suspension." So, this would not mean compressing the spring. It actually makes sense not to. I will give it a try with just a bit of jack support for stability. If that seems off, I can always remove the jack and let it hang. I will report back. Though may not get to it for a few days.

As for the bolts, they are of different lengths (f/r) and look to be correct. I'll either add a washer if there is sufficient clearance to the wheel, slightly shorten one of each pair or purchase a set of four (correct-for-certain) new ones (about $50 from db).

Again, I appreciate your replies. Happy Motoring.