Lotus Elan

Anti Seize Compound?

PostPost by: vincereynard » Sun Feb 17, 2019 12:32 pm

As this subject has been mentioned on another thread (by Rohan), I thought this may be of interest -

COMPARISON OF ANTI-SEIZE TYPES

Historically there have been three basic types of Anti-Seize on the market:

COPPER BASE
Copper base anti-seize offers good corrosion protection on all kinds of steel, but not stainless steel. Copper on stainless steel creates an inter-crystaline corrosion, which can make actual stainless steel parts crack and break. This is why the nuclear power plants do not allow copper with any material which comes in contact with the stainless steel parts.
Temperature Range: 2200° F

ALUMINUM BASE

Aluminum as a base material for Anti-Seize is good for use on stainless steel, but cannot be used on carbon steel, due to the fact that when it comes in contact with an electrolyte it becomes an anode and since this anode is extremely small in volume compared to the large cathode of the steel, it usually deteriorates quickly, leaving no protection at all on the steel surface. Corrosion therefore takes place at a higher rate of speed, as if no anti-seize would have been present.
Temperature Range: 1470° F

NICKEL BASE
Nickel has been used extensively in Anti-Seize materials, because it has good anti-seize and corrosion protection for both steel and stainless steel. However, nickel has been for many years, on the list of carcinogens ( cancer producing products ) and should not be used in applications where nickel based anti-seize is used on materials handled in workshops.
Temperature Range: 2500° F

METAL-FREE ANTI-SEIZE - http://www.depacproducts.net/
Depac Metal-Free Anti-Seize can be used in all applications, is free of any hazardous metal particles, is nontoxic, and is totally environmentally friendly.
Temperature Range: Subzero to 2500° F

Source - http://depacproducts.net/anti.html

Sadly, other than good old copaslip etc, most of these products seem fairly expensive in the UK. It could be cheaper to buy in the US and pay the carriage! Why is that? Rip Off Britain rears it's head again?

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I have also read that it is NOT advised to us copaslip on spark plugs going into an aluminium head as it can promote "galvanic" corrosion! News to me.

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Copper V Nickel - https://agradetools.com/review-top-anti-seize-2018

Here is an interesting thread, most of which goes over my head. (Brain seize?)
https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/u ... /2904468/1
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PostPost by: ericbushby » Sun Feb 17, 2019 2:06 pm

I did not know any of that. Thankyou.
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Sun Feb 17, 2019 3:45 pm

Copper base is not recommended anywhere near aluminium, as a result, I tend to use Aluminium base more on things like suspension parts and alloys wheels.

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PostPost by: awatkins » Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:30 am

Please note that the information comes from a company with a vested interest in non-metallic antisieze (i.e. their own product.). I advise seeking confirmation from a qualified organization without such an obvious conflict of interest.
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Mon Feb 18, 2019 5:35 am

I have used this non-metallic anti-seize for years on turbo machinery, including industrial gas turbines. It is the replacement for Fel-Pro C-102. It's available in several types of packaging. I use the nickel anti-seize too.

https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/pl/en/product/anti-seize-lubricants/loctite_lb_8009.html
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Feb 18, 2019 8:29 am

I don't think there are any stainless steel fasteners on a standard Elan, so it's Coppaslip all the way for me.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Mon Feb 18, 2019 10:53 am

StressCraxx wrote:I have used this non-metallic anti-seize for years on turbo machinery, including industrial gas turbines. It is the replacement for Fel-Pro C-102. It's available in several types of packaging. I use the nickel anti-seize too.


Problem with Loctite is that there is so much choice. What's the difference?
Nickel, aluminium, non metallic etc makes my head hurt nurse.

JonB wrote:I don't think there are any stainless steel fasteners on a standard Elan, so it's Coppaslip all the way for me.


As Mike stated, copper is not recommended against aluminium. Spark plug threads? Alloy wheel?
Got any stainless bolts?
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PostPost by: mikealdren » Mon Feb 18, 2019 11:43 am

An a tub of ally grease isn't really that expensive and will probably last a lifetime.
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PostPost by: rgh0 » Mon Feb 18, 2019 11:51 am

The Loctitie 771 contains both nickel and aluminium metal in a grease which is why it probably works well in bolts and studs into aluminium compared to copaslip. For standard steel nuts and bolts at ambient temperatures such as suspension bolts both copaslip and Loctite 771 appear to work equally well over the 40 year trials I have done :lol:

cheers
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:33 pm

vincereynard wrote:As Mike stated, copper is not recommended against aluminium. Spark plug threads? Alloy wheel?
Got any stainless bolts?


Nope.

I have ever, ever needed coppaslip on spark plugs. Yes, alloys but they are knock on and you don't lubricate those threads. As to stainless bolts... I doubt it. The car is very original apart from the Spider frame. The doubt I have is the front suspension spindles. Do Spyder supply stainless by default? Two of mine were replaced during the Peterborough trip.
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PostPost by: mbell » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:36 pm

I believe the Spyder spindles are stainless by default these days.
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:40 pm

Yes, I just read that on their site, so I will be removing the nuts and cleaning the Coppaslip off (if there is any - not sure I used it when reassembling those bits). As to aluminium I have ever, ever needed Coppaslip on spark plugs. I do not do them up too tight, especially in the alloy head. Yes, my car has alloy wheels but they are knock on and you don't lubricate those threads. I cleaned all the grease off them left by the PO so they are dry.
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PostPost by: vincereynard » Mon Feb 18, 2019 2:49 pm

JonB wrote: Yes, my car has alloy wheels but they are knock on and you don't lubricate those threads. I cleaned all the grease off them left by the PO so they are dry.


I was referring to the hub / wheel joint. I'm fairly sure I put a smear on the hub face to prevent it sticking to the alloys!

Interestingly the NGK advice is to not use anti seize for the first fitting as the plugs are coated. However this is removed by the initial fitting. So a small amount if the plugs are subsequently "refitted".
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PostPost by: JonB » Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:49 pm

I've never experienced a hub sticking to a wheel.. The Plus 2 knock-ons just fall off when you remove the spinner. Also, never used any type of anti lock in the spark plugs. They just don't need to be tightened that much, and they normally have a film of engine oil on their threads. I have never had a problem removing them.

Of course, if we start talking about those thermostat housing bolts, that's a different matter :(
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PostPost by: StressCraxx » Mon Feb 18, 2019 5:14 pm

Re: Spark plug threads

I have always used a drop of motor oil on the threads. Never had a stripped thread in any of my cars.
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