Lotus Elan and Lotus Elan Plus 2 Forums

Mazzini wrote:FABULOUS! I love that colour. I always wanted a Sprint in Colorado Orange, was that the same colour as Porsche Signal Orange?

Thanks very much ! I'm pretty sure that Signal Orange is more orange than Colorado Orange, but it might not show in these pictures. Colorado seems paler to me. I like it too. It will be interesting to see how the car looks as parts like door handles and the boot hinges go back on. Once it's in good sunlight I'll take more pictures.

Lovely Bob!

SENC wrote:Lovely Bob!

Thank you SENC ! Like my painter said, "there's no going back now."

Contracted the "Lotus rash" again, this time wrenching under and between the strombergs tightening the bottom left nut...

I established the reason why my fuel gauge doesn't work!!


Alan

Hmm, that might explain my problem too...

Mechanic assembled mag uprights with disk clearance, painter planning to reset one door skin as it did not stick its elbows out but its chin, and home boy installed bushings.

John

After ignoring it for a while I finally got around to installing a battery isolator and a boot light.

I can wire the light to either side of the isolator. So that the light works even with the key removed.

(I.E. when trying to find the isolator keyhole in the dark!) A usefull idea or a waste of time?

vincereynard wrote:After ignoring it for a while I finally got around to installing a battery isolator and a boot light.

I can wire the light to either side of the isolator. So that the light works even with the key removed.

(I.E. when trying to find the isolator keyhole in the dark!) A usefull idea or a waste of time?

Fit an inline fuse close to the battery as you will have a direct battery connection.

Hey Vince

Just wondering - a battery isolator is useful for maintenance but in a genuine emergency how much time do you think you need to get into the boot to disengage it? I'm wondering if some sort of mechanical remote control might work; say a rod with a knob on it connected to the isolator that protrudes into the cabin - you turn it to disengage the isolator.

Maybe I'm overthinking things!

You can fit a battery isolator just under the dash. The Solenoid is on the same side as driver rhd. Just 2 holes through Bulkhead for the heavy Cable
Alan

I realise that but the idea is to have it as close to the battery as possible, so you are isolating more of the circuit.

Vince, try one of these: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/automot ... cable-akn/

...or what I use on the Plus 2:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Battery-Brain- ... 2126760608

....gets plipped whenever I leave the car

I think there is no connection to the Battery supply Cable until it reaches the Starter Solenoid Terminal.
All of it's run is inside the Car and not exposed to get damaged
Alan

Yes Alan that's correct. But in an emergency situation you need to be sure - and I am guessing that racing standards dictate the isolator is on the battery, and that there is a good reason for that.

Now I know Vince isn't going to race his car, but I think it makes sense to make the installation as safe as possible. Plus, with my proposal there is no need to drill two holes in the bulkhead and muck about trying to route a very thick, stiff cable though them. A Bowden (pull) cable can easily be mounted inside the cockpit with much less disruption.

As ever, your car, your choice, but this is how I'd do it.