So what do I do now?

PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:46 pm

Ok, thanks John.

I'll let you know about the stabiliser :D
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PostPost by: iain.hamlton » Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:50 pm

Robbie,

I had exactly the same symptoms. The temperature read high. With a solid-state stabilizer it reads accurately now. Actually the fuel gauge tends to look low, but that reflects the difficulty of filling the tank right to the top.

best regards, Iain
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PostPost by: iain.hamlton » Wed Aug 02, 2006 1:58 pm

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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 2:19 pm

Thanks again Iain, although the wiring diagram confuses me! They all do actually :lol:

Another thought; is it possible to get at the voltage stabiliser without removing the dash?
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PostPost by: types26/36 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 3:43 pm

Robbie693 wrote: is it possible to get at the voltage stabiliser without removing the dash?


I cant say for sure as I've never done it on a plus 2 but I'm sure it is, I've done it on the small Elan and Europa, even if you have to take out the rev counter/speedo to get better access, but dont forget to DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FIRST and take note where the wires go to.......make a drawing
Just a thought, you dont have to take it out if you are replacing it, just take off the wires and fit them to the new stabilizer then find a convient place to mount it.
Last edited by types26/36 on Wed Aug 02, 2006 3:49 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPost by: iain.hamlton » Wed Aug 02, 2006 3:47 pm

Robbie,

Yes you can. Probably. I managed with some scuffed fingers. Take off the trim on the left hand side of the driver's side footwell (RHD, right?), and feel up around the back of the speedo and tach. You are trying to find a small metal box as in the picture, secured (and earthed) by the knerled nut holding the tach or speedo into the dash. It may also be necessary to take off the trim under the dash.

Of course, the one you have may be OK, but not connected or not earthed properly. The case needs to earthed (through the nut). It has two other connection as in the diagram. "B" goes to 12v, "I" is the 10 volts out to the instruments.

If John provides an electronic one in the same type of case it will go back exactly the same way.

good luck.

best regards, iain
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 4:16 pm

Great, thanks very much guys.
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PostPost by: Robbie693 » Wed Aug 02, 2006 4:26 pm

John, I sent you an email :wink:
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PostPost by: twincamman » Sun Aug 06, 2006 9:51 pm

Put some tape over the Guage and drive the car ------there will be ample warning before it blows up ----ed
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