Fuel Pumps Manual or Electronic ?
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pharriso wrote:So you power your pump to prime your carbs, then switch it off. Then you start the engine... can the mechanical pump suck fuel through this electric pump?
To be honest Phil I'm not sure, but I can blow through it so I'm assuming there'll be no problem. And Alan and Quart Meg seem to confirm that it will work OK. Thanks to you all for your helpful confirmations.
1965 Elan S2 (26/4726)
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
- Geoffers71
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When my +2 has not been used over winter I take the spark plugs out and give the car a run on the starter. That gets oil pressure up and circulating and primes the carbs. Plugs back in and it usually starts easily when I remember the choke/pump sequence needed for Dellorto's
- RedBarnMan
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To update my dilemma about mech /electric pump, I've fitted the cheapo electric pump shown above just as an initial primer, not a permanent electrical pump. It works perfectly. As suggested by Meg I connected + to earth and a - wire that can be touched to the neg side of the battery for as long as it takes to prime the carbs. Just 10 secs or so and the car is ready to start. Solves my starting problems straight away and the car behaves as normal afterwards. Brilliant.
1965 Elan S2 (26/4726)
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
2002 Elise S2 (now sold )
1970 Scimitar GTE
"The older I get the better I was !"
- Geoffers71
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- Joined: 06 Feb 2014
So do the guys with electric fuel pumps prime the oil system if it's been stood long enough for the fuel to evaporate from the carbs? or do hope there is enough residual oil, start it and let the engine idle to build up oil pressure??
I deal allot with old cars and i always want to see oil pressure before i attempt to start the car..... usually means cranking it with the HT lead off.....
I deal allot with old cars and i always want to see oil pressure before i attempt to start the car..... usually means cranking it with the HT lead off.....
Chris
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Grizzly - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Grizzly wrote:I deal allot with old cars and i always want to see oil pressure before i attempt to start the car..... usually means cranking it with the HT lead off.....
Same here, although I also take the plugs out to ease the starter's workload (and it spins faster). After seeing pressure, plugs in and off you go. It only takes an extra minute. (although I do wonder if it will effect the electronic ignition bits.)
So I might consider a starter solenoid with a manual button! Something like -
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110710879392
Vince
- vincereynard
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vincereynard wrote:What could be useful is a starter solenoid with a manual button!
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/110710879392
Vince
Aren't they standard on pre Sprint Elans?
Yes you are quite correct Plugs out does help also prevents it getting flooded.
Chris
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Grizzly - Coveted Fifth Gear
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I always disconnect the Petronix when I take the plugs out & turn the engine over. Just a precaution.
Keith Marshall
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
69 S4 SE DHC RHD Original owner
- saildrive2001
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For what its worth in 20 years of racing I can't remember a car that ran on a mechanical pump if an electric was permitted under the rules. This in a sport where reliability was paramount. Secondly, if either a mechanical or an electric were to fail, then an electric would be a whole lot easier to replace in the field than the mechanical on a twink. If in doubt carry a spare.
- crannyr
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If I were to go electric it would be wired through a isolator switch to ensure the carbs. could be emptied of fuel to save the fuel smell in the garage.
- vincereynard
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vincereynard wrote:If I were to go electric it would be wired through a isolator switch to ensure the carbs. could be emptied of fuel to save the fuel smell in the garage.
But you've got a +2; the fuel smell comes from the tank breathers, unless you've stuffed something in them!
Meg
26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
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26/4088 1965 S1½ Old and scruffy but in perfect working order; the car too.
________________Put your money where your mouse is, click on "Support LotusElan.net" below.
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Quart Meg Miles - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Probably the answer for the earlier Plus2s would be to add the second chamber for overflow like the later cars. Wouldn't have to be exactly like the later tank, but if done correctly, and used with a charcoal filter, the smell would no longer be present. It would also eliminate the fuel slosh through the filler cap on right hand turns.
Rob Walker
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
26-4889
50-0315N
1964 Sabra GT
1964 Elva Mk4T Coupe (awaiting restoration)
1965 Ford Falcon Ranchero, 302,AOD,9",rack and pinion,disc,etc,etc,etc
1954 Nash Healey LeMans Coupe
Owning a Lotus will get you off the couch
- prezoom
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crannyr wrote:For what its worth in 20 years of racing I can't remember a car that ran on a mechanical pump if an electric was permitted under the rules. This in a sport where reliability was paramount. Secondly, if either a mechanical or an electric were to fail, then an electric would be a whole lot easier to replace in the field than the mechanical on a twink. If in doubt carry a spare.
Really? I know racers that use EFI that need an Electric fuel pump but i know Drag racers who use Mechanical because they can be stripped and inspected.
Chris
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Grizzly - Coveted Fifth Gear
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Quart Meg Miles wrote:vincereynard wrote:If I were to go electric it would be wired through a isolator switch to ensure the carbs. could be emptied of fuel to save the fuel smell in the garage.
But you've got a +2; the fuel smell comes from the tank breathers, unless you've stuffed something in them!
It has a posh sealed filler cap and a modified breather system that was "supposed" to cure it. What makes me suspect the carbs. is that the pong goes away after a week or so when, presumably, the carbs have emptied. Whereas the contents of the tank has remained the same.
A good step would be to move the tank filler to the middle! No breather probs, no leaking filler.
- vincereynard
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The main reason I changed to electric pump around 30 years ago was because when I had roadside engine problems in my first years of ownership, I found that to check the pump, the engine had to be running, and to check the engine the pump had to be running. A real chicken and egg situation.
I bought TWO Facet pumps, as I had been told that they were unreliable.
Thirty years later, the first pump is running away merrily, never had a problem.
The second Facet pump is still in its box
I bought TWO Facet pumps, as I had been told that they were unreliable.
Thirty years later, the first pump is running away merrily, never had a problem.
The second Facet pump is still in its box
68 Elan +2, 70 Elan +2s
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Foxie - Coveted Fifth Gear
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